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Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of Beat Kammerlander’s Rätikon Kampfzone
09/08/2020 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of Beat Kammerlander’s Rätikon Kampfzone
On 06/08/2020 Barbara Zangerl made the first repeat of Kampfzone, an 8b+ multi-pitch in the Rätikon first ascended by Beat Kammerlander ground-up in 2013 and freed in 2017. Jacopo Larcher followed suit yesterday.
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
08/08/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Siebe Vanhee repeats Orbayu, 8c multi-pitch on Naranjo de Bulnes in Picos de Europa
27/07/2020 - Climbing
Siebe Vanhee repeats Orbayu, 8c multi-pitch on Naranjo de Bulnes in Picos de Europa
On 25/07/2020 Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee completed a rare one-day free-ascent of Orbayu (8c/500m) on Picu Urriellu (Naranjo De Bulnes) in the Picos de Europa National Park, Spain.
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award
23/07/2020 - Alpinism
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award
French mountaineer Catherine Destivelle will become the first woman to receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland in September. In the past the coveted prize has been awarded to greatest mountaineers of all times.
Stefano Ghisolfi takes The Bow, new 9a+ at Padaro, Arco
13/07/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi takes The Bow, new 9a+ at Padaro, Arco
27-year-old climber Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of The Bow, a new 9a+ sport climb at the crag Padaro in Arco, Italy.
Walter Bonatti would have turned 90 today
22/06/2020 - Alpinism
Walter Bonatti would have turned 90 today
In order to remember the great mountaineer and extremely special man who passed away in 2011, we’ve published the thoughts and memories of his inseparable life partner Rossana Podestà.
Climbing the Cassin - Ratti on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites. By Carlo Cosi
04/06/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing the Cassin - Ratti on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites. By Carlo Cosi
The historic Cassin - Ratti route the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, established by Riccardo Cassin and Vittorio Ratti with two bivouacs from 28-30 August 1935, is a landmark in climbing history. Italian Mountain Guide Carlo Cosi recalls his summer 2019 repeat with Sara Mastel.
Ortler & Königspitze paralpinism linkup by Aaron Durogati, Bruno Mottini
03/06/2020 - Alpinism
Ortler & Königspitze paralpinism linkup by Aaron Durogati, Bruno Mottini
Aaron Durogati reports about his Monday 3 June ascent with Bruno Mottini of the north face of Ortler and the NE Face of Königspitze / Gran Zebrù. The duo enchained the mountains using a paraglider and needed 9.5 hours for the linkup.
Stefano Ghisolfi concludes his Beginning 9a/+ at Arco
24/05/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi concludes his Beginning 9a/+ at Arco
At the crag Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco, Italy, Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Beginning 9a/+.
Ciao Berna! Farewell to Matteo Bernasconi
13/05/2020 - Alpinism
Ciao Berna! Farewell to Matteo Bernasconi
On 12 May 2020 Matteo Bernasconi, the talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and member of the Ragni di Lecco climbing club, perished in an avalanche. Born in 1982 and loved by everyone, Berna was ski mountaineering in Valtellina when the accident occurred.
The North Face Covid-19 Explore Fund pledges €1 million to support outdoor communities
06/05/2020 - Environment
the north face Covid-19 Explore Fund pledges €1 million to support outdoor communities
We have received and publish the press release of the north face that through its COVID-19 Explore Fund is committing € 1 million to support the outdoor communities affected by the Covid-19 crisis. Applications are welcome from companies and charities in the UK, Germany, France and Italy and are open...
Jacopo Larcher: we must remain united
22/04/2020 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher: we must remain united
The appeal by South Tyrolean climber Jacopo Larcher to remain united during these times made difficult by the Coronavirus emergency. Because 'the world does not need even more anger, violence and hate now, but instead love and solidarity.'
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
06/04/2020 - Climbing
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
Spanish climber Iker Pou recalls his ascent 20 years ago of Action Directe, the Frankenjura masterpiece freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. At the time, Pou’s ascent in autumn 2000 was only the second repeat after Alexander Adler and, nowadays just two decades ago, the route is considered one of...
Triglav North Face, Matej Balažic and Marjan Kozole climb For Friends
12/03/2020 - Alpinism
Triglav North Face, Matej Balažic and Marjan Kozole climb For Friends
On the north face of Triglav, the highest mountain in Slovenia, Matej Balažic and Marjan Kozole climbed Za prijatelje, For Friends. This combination of four summer rock climbs transforms into a logical winter line circa 1000m high and was climbed with one bivouac from 15-16 February 2020. This is probably...
Big wall explored in Valle de la Plata, Patagonia, by Siebe Vanhee, Max Didier, Austin & Ian Siadak
05/03/2020 - Alpinism
Big wall explored in Valle de la Plata, Patagonia, by Siebe Vanhee, Max Didier, Austin & Ian Siadak
During a committing rock climbing expedition in February 2020 to Valle de la Plata in Chile’s Northern Patagonia, Max Didier, Austin Siadak, Ian Siadak and Siebe Vanhee established Bailando con la Lluvia, a 700m big wall up the west face of the hitherto virgin peak Pared de La Plata. After...

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