Gran Couloir della Levannetta climbed above Valle dell’Orco

Levannetta is a 3439 meter peak in the Levanne group located between Italy’s Valle dell’Orco and Val Grande di Lanzo and France’s Valle dell'Arc. The mountains in this part of the world are predominately rocky, unfortunately though the rock is very poor quality and therefore not particularly appealing to mountaineers nowadays.

But if the rock is bad, surely it might be possible to climb a mixed route in winter up the mountain’s huge north face? This is how ​​this climb came into being. The route was out there, just waiting to be climbed. A somewhat obvious line to be honest.

Gran Coluoir della Levannetta climbs the obvious gully that starts at 2800m and reaches the summit ridge at 3400m. For about two thirds (circa 10 pitches) the guly is clearly visible and predominantly snowy except for 3 ice steps, while on the upper third the gully transforms into a narrow couloir and as it trends leftwards becomes almost hidden from the valley. The crux of the entire route is concentrated in this final third, breached in four pitches.

Gran Coluoir della Levannetta is a beautiful climb in a solitary environment, far removed from the more popular areas in Valle dell'Orco. The climbing is varied and the snow sections, breached by simul-climbing, give way to beautiful ice pitches. The final part of the route is reminiscent of the most famous couloirs in the Mont Blanc massif. The climb’s only drawback? You have to enjoy long days out in the mountains, because from the car to the top its a 1800m vertical gain.

by Umberto Bado

Link: guidealpinetorino.com