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Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
02/11/2017 - Alpinism
Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
On 22 August 2017 Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima completed a new route up the NE Face of Shispare (7611m), Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbing alpine style for seven days, the Japanese mountaineers encountered difficulties up to M6 / WI 5.
Mount Edgar summit and new Italian West Face climb in China
28/10/2017 - Alpinism
Mount Edgar summit and new Italian West Face climb in China
An Italian expedition comprised of François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai has successfully climbed Mount Edgar (6618m) in the Sichuan region of China. Climbing in two teams, they repeated the original Korean route...
Shivling, big new route in Indian Himalaya climbed by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
26/10/2017 - Alpinism
Shivling, big new route in Indian Himalaya climbed by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
Mountaineering news: in October Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Shiva's Ice, a beautiful new route up Shivling (6543 m) in the Indian Himalayas.
Nangpai Gosum II first ascended by Jost Kobusch
12/10/2017 - Alpinism
Nangpai Gosum II first ascended by Jost Kobusch
24-year-old German alpinist Jost Kobusch claims the first ascent of Nangpai Gosum II, the 7296 meter high mountain located on the border between Nepal and China.
Goodbye to Franček Knez, Slovenia's silent climber
09/10/2017 - Alpinism
Goodbye to Franček Knez, Slovenia's silent climber
62-year-old Slovenian mountaineer Franček Knez died on 6 October 2017. Reserved and modest, Knez was considered by many as one of the strongest alpinists of his generation. Published below is a profile written by Slovenian journalist Urban Golob in 2010...
Alix von Melle and Luis Stitzinger summit Manaslu
06/10/2017 - Alpinism
Alix von Melle and Luis Stitzinger summit Manaslu
On 30 September the German mountaineers Alix von Melle and Luis Stitzinger reached the summit of Manaslu, their seventh 8000er climbing without the use of supplementary oxygen.
Sílvia Vidal climbs new route up Xanadu West face in Alaska
09/09/2017 - Alpinism
Sílvia Vidal climbs new route up Xanadu West face in Alaska
From 5 to 21 July 2017 Catalan alpinist Sílvia Vidal made the solo first ascent of 'Un pas més' (A4 / A4+, 6a, 530 m) up the West Face of Xanadu (Arrigetch Peaks, Alaska).
L'or du temps on Grand Capucin, Slovaks claim first free ascent
06/09/2017 - Alpinism
L'or du temps on Grand Capucin, Slovaks claim first free ascent
The report by 16-year-old Slovak climber Pavel Kratochvíl who on 27/08/2017 with Róbert Luby (21) and Martin Krasňanský (34) made the first free ascent of L'or du temps, the new route put up on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc, by Nina...
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
16/08/2017 - Alpinism
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
In July 2017 a Chilean expedition comprised of Andres Bosch, Alejandro Mora and Armando Montero has made two first ascents close to Broad Peak and K2 in Pakistan’s Karakorum range: Praqpa Ri South 7046m and the new route Mirchi up...
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
11/08/2017 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
The report by Czech mountaineer Marek Holeček who with Zdeněk Hák established over 8 days a great new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum.
New climbs in the Kishtwar Himalaya by Aleš Česen, Marko Prezelj, Urban Novak
27/07/2017 - Alpinism
New climbs in the Kishtwar Himalaya by Aleš Česen, Marko Prezelj, Urban Novak
In the Indian Kishtwar Himalaya the Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen, Marko Prezelj and Urban Novak have climbed two new routes: All or nothing (6250 m) up the West Face of Arjuna (6250 m) and the North Ridge of P6013 (6038...
Mountaineering in Bolivia: new climb in little known Cordillera Quimsa Cruz
25/07/2017 - Alpinism
Mountaineering in Bolivia: new climb in little known Cordillera Quimsa Cruz
Enrico Rosso reports about the June 2017 expedition he led to the Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz massif in Bolivia, where the rock climb 'Kamasa' (250m, 6b, A2) was added to the North Face of Gran Muralla (5200m).
Ralf Dujmovits, dream vanishes of climbing Everest without supplementary oxygen
05/06/2017 - Alpinism
Ralf Dujmovits, dream vanishes of climbing Everest without supplementary oxygen
At the end of May the German mountaineer Ralf Dujmovits was forced to abandon his attempt of climbing Everest without supplementary oxygen due to the strong winds and snowfall at 8,580 meters. In 2009, Dujmovits completed all fourteen 8000ers without...
Kilian Jornet summits Everest twice in a week
29/05/2017 - Alpinism
Kilian Jornet summits Everest twice in a week
After having summited Everest on 22 May 2017, on 27 May Spain’s Kilian Jornet Burgada reached the summit of the world’s highest mountain for the second time in one week. Jornet Burgada climbed without supplementary oxygen and in 17 hours...
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger end Kangchenjunga Skyline Project
25/05/2017 - Alpinism
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger end Kangchenjunga Skyline Project
After having reached 7200m, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have decided to end their Skyline Project aimed at traversing the long ridgeline of Kangchenjunga in Himalaya. The two Italian alpinists are safely back at base camp.
Everest & Co, good and bad news from the highest mountains in the world
25/05/2017 - Alpinism
Everest & Co, good and bad news from the highest mountains in the world
Mountaineering: the latest updates from Everest, Lhotse, Dhaulagiri, Cho Oyu and Makalu, concerning Kilian Jornet Burgada, Elisabeth Revol and Marco Confortola as well as Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger's attempt at Kangchenjunga. Furthermore, several deaths have been reported.

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