3143 News found

In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio Eksen" (200m, 7c max, 7a+ obligatory) in the Cimbar Valley.

In Ticino, Switzerland's bouldering paradise, Nalle Hukkataival from Finland has established numerous new boulder problems including Momentum 8C and Off the Wagon 8B+ in Val Bavona.

On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).

The difficult project Bombé bleu at the French crag Buoux has recently been attempted by Iker Pou.

Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...

The 7th Piolet d’Or Asia 2012 was held in Seoul, Korea on 9/11/2012. The alpine award went to the Korean mountaineers Kim Chang-ho and An Chi-young, as well as Zhou Peng and Lee Shuang. Denis Urbko from Kazakhstan won the achievement award.

In October 2012 Ukrainian alpinists Serhiy Bublik and Mykola Shymko succeeded in the first ascent of Simnang Himal (also referred to as peak P2), the 6251m high mountain located in the Manaslu region of the Himalaya.

Four new rock climbs have seen the light of day in the Monte Oddeu massif (Dorgali, Sardinia). These 200m outings are entirely bolt protected, climb, splendid rock and fit in to "plaisir" category.

The Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar have made the first ascent of Blue Racer (80°, M4, 1100m), a new route up the virgin West Face of Janak (Himalaya).

In Val Bavona (Switzerland) Tobias Wolf has made the first ascent of Saga di Valle Bavona (7c+/8a, 205m).

In China's Shaluli Shan mountain range Dave Anderson and Szu-ting Yi have made the first ascent of Kemailong (5870m).

Vittorio Messini and Isidor Poppeller have made the first ascent of Die Ritter der Kokosnuss up Großer Falkenstein, Austria.

In Valle dell'Orco Alex Ostorero and Enrico Griotto have made the first ascent of Waiting for the sun behind the moon (7b, 6b obl./RS2/II).

German climber Michi Wohlleben has made the first free ascent of Hystrix (200m, 8a+ max, 7a obligatory), the climb established by Matteo Giglio with partners up the north face of Pizzo Campana (Rocca Busambra), close to Palermo, Italy.

In October 2012 British alpinists Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden made the first ascent of Prow of Shiva ED+ up Mt. Shiva (6,142m), India.

Climbing in Europe from the point of view of ace American climber Tommy Caldwell who ascended a series of difficult multi-pitches in Rätikon, Val Bavona and Wenden, including the repeat of Portami Via which included the first ascent of a pitch variation.