Mauro Calibani climbs Hole's Trilogy at Roccamorice

On 14/06/2013 at Roccamorice in Abruzzo (Italy) Mauro Calibani made the first ascent of Hole’s Trilogy, a new 8c. Mauro Calibani provides the report.
1 / 8
Mauro Calibani making the first ascent of Hole’s Trilogy 8c at Roccamorice, Abruzzo, Italy
Andrea Vagnoni
The other day I climbed it.

When they showed it to me I was speechless, the boulder was there, still, immobile since who knows when, having fallen from the crag above and stopped just above the river bed; it saw it for the first time at night, in the beam of my head torch it seemed beautiful, silver grey, a piece of precious rock.

It wedged itself into the side of my mind and ever since then I began to yearn to climb it.

Powerful desires frighten me, because when I want but fail to get something, I become hurt, hurt inside.

I decided to put myself to the test.

This time the trick worked, it all worked out for the best.

The line winds its way past a barrage of small pockets, as sharp as razor blades through the centre of the face up slice of 50° overhanging rock.

When I sent it everything fit into just the right place, my body traced harmonious moves while I suffered due to the severe pain of my skin and tendons stacked into the pockets

A special thanks goes to the person who bolted it and I apologise for having changed its name, for having chosen to reinterpret it based on my personal liking (the original name is still written at the base).

A rare line, pure and shamelessly beautiful.

Keep doing what you love!
Keep loving what you do!

by Mauro Calibani



Note:
Expo.Planetmountain
Expo C.A.M.P.
Expo La Sportiva
www
www.enove.it



Latest news


Expo / News


Expo / Products
SCARPA Arpia, comfortable and versatile climbing shoes.
Merino Wool Mountaineering Sock.
Lightweight, strong and durable Ice climbing screws
Ferrino Extreme 2 is the lightest high-altitude tent on the market.
La Sportiva mountaineering boots for fast mountaineering on mixed terrain and for use at medium altitude.
Hiking boots AKU Superalp V-Light GTX, ideal for High Routes of the Dolomites and treks of several days
Show products