2613 News found
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.
03/07/2024 - Alpinism
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer On 30 April 2024 Jakob Steinkasserer and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Hexentango' (WI 4+, M 4+, 55°, 500m) on the west face of Hochflachkofel in the Rieserferner Group in South Tyrol, Italy. Steinkasserer reports.
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974 From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro Ferrari, Mario Conti, Pino Negri and Daniele Chiappa. Text by...
22/06/2024 - Competitions
Olympic Qualifier Series Budapest: Saturday Live Saturday 22 June 2024 the Olympic Qualifier Series continue in Budapest, Hungary this morning with Combined Boulder & Lead Semi-finals, and the Speed Finals. This is the last chance for the 150 athletes to qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. The competitions will be streamed live on the Olympic...
21/06/2024 - Competitions
Olympic Qualifier Series Budapest: Speed Qualification The second stage of the Olympic Qualifier Series continue in Budapest, Hungary, today at 10:00 CET with the Men's & Women's Lead Qualification, followed by Speed Qualification at 17:00. This is the last chance for the 150 athletes to qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. The competitions will be...
20/06/2024 - Competitions
Budapest Olympic Qualifier Series Live After Shanghai, the second stage of the Olympic Qualifier Series begins in Budapest, Hungary, today at 12:00 CET. Taking place from 20 to 23 June, this is the last chance for the 150 athletes to qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. The competitions will be streamed live on the...
19/06/2024 - Climbing
Stop the Genocide banner hung on El Capitan in protest against Gaza war On Monday 17 June a team of climbers hung a banner on El Capitan in Yosemite reading 'Stop the Genocide', to raise awareness of the conflict and put pressure on Israel to end the war in Gaza.
13/06/2024 - Events
San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) to host Piolets d’Or 2024 The 2024 edition of the 'Piolets d’Or, the prestigious mountaineering award, will be held in San Martino di Castrozza, in Trentino, Italy, from 8 - 11 December 2024.
09/06/2024 - Climbing
Video: The Disturbing Rise and Fall of Dean Potter The video portrait of Dean Potter, one of the world’s leading climbers who lost his life on 16/05/2015 aged 43 in a wingsuit accident in Yosemite Valley, USA, together with Graham Hunt.
07/06/2024 - Alpinism
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed West Face of Hungchi (7029m) in Nepal. Their 1700m high new route, 'Le cavalier sans tête', was climbed alpine style from 17 - 19 May and involved a descent via the mountain's east face.
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs in France.
29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70° ice/snow) is only the second ascent of the mountain. Following...
19/05/2024 - Climbing
Jorg Verhoeven powers up Papichulo (9a+) at Oliana 38-year-old Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven has sent his first 9a+, 'Papichulo' at Oliana in Spain.
17/05/2024 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Great Trango Tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison Alpinists Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger and Jim Morrison have made the first ski descent of Great Trango Tower (6286m) in Pakistan, skiing a steep, exposed and weaving line down the mountain's west face.
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