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Dolomites Val d’Ansiei: the new icefall Night Love
22/02/2017 - Alpinism
Dolomites Val d’Ansiei: the new icefall Night Love
Francesco Rigon reports about his ascent of 'Night Love' (WI5, 35m), a probable new ice climb in Val d'Ansiei (Cadore, Italy).
Troll Wall, first solo winter ascent by Marek Raganowicz in Norway
02/02/2017 - Alpinism
Troll Wall, first solo winter ascent by Marek Raganowicz in Norway
Interview with Polish alpinist Marek Raganowicz who, from 11 - 26 January 2017, made the first solo winter ascent of Troll Wall (Trollveggen) in Norway by repeating the climb Suser gjennom Harryland (6/A3).
Panta rei, new icefall in Valbruna, Italy, climbed by Enrico Mosetti and Tine Cuder
29/01/2017 - Alpinism
Panta rei, new icefall in Valbruna, Italy, climbed by Enrico Mosetti and Tine Cuder
Winter mountaineering: Enrico Mosetti reports about the first ascent of Panta rei, a new mixed climb in Valbruna (Julian Alps, Italy) first ascended on 24/01/2017 with Tine Cuder.
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
21/01/2017 - Alpinism
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
On Wednesday evening Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias passed away in Trieste. The acclaimed Italian alpinist, writer and theater director was an academic of the Italian Alpine Club and, for three decades, president of GISM, the Italian Group of Mountain Writers....
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine...
Jacopo Larcher: interview after climbing Free Zodiac up El Capitan, Yosemite
26/12/2016 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher: interview after climbing Free Zodiac up El Capitan, Yosemite
Big wall climbing: interview with South Tyrol’s Jacopo Larcher who last autumn, together with Barbara Zangerl made the third free ascent of Free Zodiac up the SE Face of El Capitan, Yosemite.
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
29/11/2016 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the...
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
25/11/2016 - Interviews
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who, leading all pitches from 14 to 21 November 2016, completed the second free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite. Considered the hardest big wall in the world, this climb was...
Adam Ondra encounters first real difficulties on Dawn Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite
18/11/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra encounters first real difficulties on Dawn Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite
On his fourth day of climbing Adam Ondra has hit the first hurdle on Dawn Wall: after 7 attempts he failed to free climb the 14th pitch. Graded 9a, this is considered the most difficult up this big wall freed...
Via RoMa, new climb on Grandes Jorasses
17/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via RoMa, new climb on Grandes Jorasses
From 26 - 28 August 2016 the Russian mountaineers Maxim Foygel and Roman Gorodischenskiy made the first ascent of 'Via RoMa' (ED 1350m 6a A2), a new route on the East Face of Pointe Walker (4208m), Grandes Jorasses (Alps). The...
Zodiac Free on El Capitan by Jacopo Larcher & Barbara Zangerl
16/11/2016 - Climbing
Zodiac Free on El Capitan by Jacopo Larcher & Barbara Zangerl
After 5 days on the wall Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl made a free ascent of the Zodiac, the historic big wall climb on the southeast face of El Capitan, Yosemite.
Jernej Kruder / the Es Pontas deep water solo interview
02/11/2016 - Interviews
Jernej Kruder / the Es Pontas deep water solo interview
Interview with Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who on 01/11/2016 made the first repeat of Es Pontas, the famous deep water solo climb first ascended a decade ago by Chris Sharma on the island of Mallorca, Spain.
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič: the Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit interview
21/10/2016 - Alpinism
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič: the Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit interview
Interview with Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič after their ascents of Broad Peak (8047m) and Gasherbrum IV North Summit (7900m).
Adam Ondra 9b first ascent and 8c+ onsight in Slovakia
13/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra 9b first ascent and 8c+ onsight in Slovakia
Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra who on 05/10/2016 at Alternativna stena in Slovakia made the first ascent of 'Robin Úd', a 9b sports climb, before on sighting the 8c+ 'C'est la vie'.
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
11/10/2016 - Events
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
From September 30 to October 4, 2016, the first Uiju Mountain Film Festival took place in South Korea. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner was the Honorary guest, while 24 films took part in the competition. The Festival Grand Prize was awarded...
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
10/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
Mike Kosterlitz was recently awarded the Nobel Prize in Physics. Apart from his scientific genius, the Scotsman was an expert climber and mountaineer who left his mark in particular in Italy’s Orco valley with his famous Fessura Kosterlitz. By Giovanni...

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