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Climbing at Paklenica in Croatia
05/09/2014 - Climbing
Climbing at Paklenica in Croatia
Boris Cujic introduces the Paklenica Gorge, the undisputed reference point for rock climbing in Croatia.
Torre Egger: Italians Patagonia bound
05/09/2014 - Alpinism
Torre Egger: Italians Patagonia bound
From 11 September to 15 November Ermanno Salvaterra, Tomas Franchini, Nicola Binelli and Francesco Salvaterra will return to Patagonia to try and complete their new route, which they started in November 2013, up the centre of the West Face of Torre Egger.
No Credit, new rock climb up Tofana di Rozes in the Dolomites by Gietl and Tavanini
03/09/2014 - Alpinism
No Credit, new rock climb up Tofana di Rozes in the Dolomites by Gietl and Tavanini
This summer the mountain guides Simon Gietl and Daniel Tavanini made the first ascent of No Credit (X-, 320m), a new route up Tofana di Rozes in the Dolomites.
Muriel Sarkany and Urko Carmona Barandiaran win the Arco Rock Legends 2014
30/08/2014 - Events
Muriel Sarkany and Urko Carmona Barandiaran win the Arco Rock Legends 2014
On Friday 29/08/2014 during the 9th edition of Arco Rock Legends the Salewa Rock Award was won by Muriel Sarkany while Urko Carmona Barandiaran won the La Sportiva Competition Award. The Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil award was assigned to the Italian writer, sculptor, alpinist and rock climber Mauro Corona.
Brenta Base Camp #2 - two new routes up Punta Jolanda
25/08/2014 - Alpinism
Brenta Base Camp #2 - two new routes up Punta Jolanda
The report by Alessandro Beber and Alessandro Baù about two new rock climbs on Punta Jolanda: Prua degli Onironauti (250m, VII) and Badanti al seguito (220m, VIII), established on 04/08/2014 together with Matteo Baù, Fabrizio Dellai, Matteo Faletti and Claudia Mario. The second report of the Brenta Base Camp, the...
Shark's Tooth, new climb in Greenland by Della Bordella, Schüpbach and Ledergerber
22/08/2014 - Alpinism
Shark's Tooth, new climb in Greenland by Della Bordella, Schüpbach and Ledergerber
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber have made the first ascent of The Great Shark Hunt, a new route up the Shark's Tooth in Greenland.
Difficult new trad climb in South Wales by Tom Randall
21/08/2014 - Climbing
Difficult new trad climb in South Wales by Tom Randall
British climber Tom Randall has made the first ascent of Dina Crac, E9 7a at Dinas Rock in South Wales.
Electric Funeral, new route in Canada's Bugaboos by Jon Walsh and Michelle Kadatz
20/08/2014 - Alpinism
Electric Funeral, new route in Canada's Bugaboos by Jon Walsh and Michelle Kadatz
Jon Walsh and Michelle Kadatz have made the first ascent of Electric Funeral (300m, 5.11+) on the Wide Awake Tower, Bugaboos, Canada.
Roger Schäli and the film Loslassen, let go
18/08/2014 - Book-press
Roger Schäli and the film Loslassen, let go
The entire version of Loslassen, let go is now online. This film recounts the ascent of Arwa Spire (6193m) in India together with Simon Gietl, but also talks about the human relationships.
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
14/08/2014 - Alpinism
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
On 4/09/2013 Giovani Bassanini and Lamberto Camurri made the first ascent of Astro Zap (7a), a line that climbs the crack avoided by the Via Diretta Bonatti, first climbed by Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli in 1963 up Le Trident du Tacul in the Mont Blanc massif.
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo
12/08/2014 - Alpinism
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo
A great and intense and climbing trip to the Ak-su Valley (Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan) resulted in two new climbs and three repeats for the Italian alpinists Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo. Schiera provides the report.
No Rest For the Wicked, new route in Alaska by John Frieh and Jess Roskelley
08/08/2014 - Alpinism
No Rest For the Wicked, new route in Alaska by John Frieh and Jess Roskelley
On 29 and 30 May 2014 American alpinists John Frieh and Jess Roskelley made the first ascent of No Rest For the Wicked (IV+ AI6 M7), a difficult new route up the West Witches Tit in SE Alaska. The report by John Frieh.
Abella de la Conca: new routes and video
07/08/2014 - Climbing
Abella de la Conca: new routes and video
New sport climbs have been added and freed at Abella de la Conca in Spain by Klemen Becan Caroline Ciavaldini , Enzo Oddo, Kevin Aglae, Kevin Aglae, Jonas Schachtsneider, and James Pearson. The video by Francisco Taranto Jr.
New ice climbs in Chile by Cecilia Buil and Anna Torretta in Chile
06/08/2014 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Chile by Cecilia Buil and Anna Torretta in Chile
In mid-July Cecilia Buil from Spain and Anna Torretta from Italy made the first ascent of La Gioconda (160m, WI 6) a new ice climb on the glacier Cerro El Marmolejo (6109m, Chile) to which they then added the variation Le Bombardier (30m, WI 6-). The report by Anna Torretta.
Blåmannen Ikaros: the first free ascent by Thomas Meling
05/08/2014 - Alpinism
Blåmannen Ikaros: the first free ascent by Thomas Meling
On 9 June 2013 Thomas Meling made the first free ascent of Ikaros (7c), first climbed by Robert Caspersen, alone, in 1994 up the North Face of Blåmannen, Norway. The full report by Meling.
Then and now: the Lecco route on Grand Capucin
03/08/2014 - Alpinism
Then and now: the Lecco route on Grand Capucin
Matteo Della Bordella and Arianna Colliard and the ascent of the Lecco route up the SE Face of Grand Capucin, put up in 1968 by the Ragni di Lecco climbers Aldo Anghileri, Guerino Cariboni, Casimiro Ferrari, Carlo Mauri and Pino Negri. A story to remember a great route up the...

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