Logan Barber breaches The Firewall at Liming, the hardest trad route in China

At Liming in China Logan Barber has made the first ascent of The Firewall, a strong contender for the hardest trad climb in the country.
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Logan Barber making the first ascent of The Firewall at Liming. Graded 5.13d/14a, this climb checks in as the hardest trad route in China. Image is Copyright Garrett Bradley. All rights reserved. No use, duplication or adaptation is allowed without written permission
© Garrett Bradley
32-year-old Australian rock climber Logan Barber checks in with what is believed to be the hardest trad route in China, The Firewall at the trad climbing area Liming in the province of Yunnan. Located in an amazing position perched high above the little town, the route in question is actually the third pitch of The Flying Buttress, a route that had previously been climbed with the use of aid.

Barber first visited the area this February and spent the first couple of weeks getting used to the particular nature of this sandstone climbing. He also made the third ascent, after Raúl Saúco, of Matt Segal’s Air China. Graded 5.13d R, this was previously considered the hardest route in the area.

Barber then set his sights on the airy final pitch on The Flying Buttress that he has described as "a pure splitter, steep, long, powerful, technical, and brilliant." Initially though the overhanging crack proved too difficult and he had to return home empty-handed but on his second trip - and on his 22nd attempt - he finally freed the pitch. Barber believes The Firewall is harder than Air China and consequently he has suggested the grade 5.13d/14a.

Info: Instagram Logan Barber & Instagram Garrett Bradley


27/05/2014 - Climb China, the new climbing guidebook to China and Hong Kong
Climb China, the guidebook by Kevin Wojton, Karen Thang and Ana Pautler: a selection of the best climbs from China and Hong Kong.





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