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Has exploratory alpinism failed?
10/10/2014 - Alpinism
Has exploratory alpinism failed?
Starting from a recent statement by Reinhold Messner, Manuel Lugli discusses the presumed end of “traditional” and exploratory alpinism.
Angela Eiter frees Hercules 8c+ at Götterwandl in Austria
09/10/2014 - Climbing
Angela Eiter frees Hercules 8c+ at Götterwandl in Austria
On 04/10/2014 at the Austrian crag Götterwandl Angela Eiter made the first ascent of Hercules 8c+.
The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2014: kick-off!
08/10/2014 - Climbing
The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2014: kick-off!
The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2014 begins today. The international climbing meeting takes place on the island of Kalymnos, Greece, from 9 – 12 October 2014. More than 2500 climbers are expected for this third edition that will celebrate...
Giù la testa, new Lagorai rock climb, Dolomites
06/10/2014 - Alpinism
Giù la testa, new Lagorai rock climb, Dolomites
The report by Peter Moser about Giù la testa (350m VIII / VIII+), a difficult new trad rock climb first ascended in 2014 in the Lagorai group, Dolomites, together with Thomas Ballerin, Iwan Canins and Roberto Ronzani.
Two new routes by Maurizio Oviglia for...his daughters
03/10/2014 - Alpinism
Two new routes by Maurizio Oviglia for...his daughters
Maurizio Oviglia dedicates two new routes in Sardinia to his daughters, Kawaii, climbed with his daughter Elena on the Placche dell'Elefante in Sarrabus and Sweet Helen, climbed with Cecilia Marchi and dedicated to their daughter Elena, on the Figlia di...
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
02/10/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and...
Greenland 2014 and Baffin island: climbing at Gibbs Fjord by Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva
01/10/2014 - Alpinism
Greenland 2014 and Baffin island: climbing at Gibbs Fjord by Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva
The final report by Nicolas Favresse about the Greenland 2014 expedition, carried out together with Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva. This final update includes the exploration at Gibbs Fjord, Baffin Island
New route by Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz up Sas Ciampac in the Dolomites
30/09/2014 - Alpinism
New route by Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz up Sas Ciampac in the Dolomites
In October 2013 the two mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of Rien ne va plus (435m, 7b+ max, 7a obligatory), a new climb up the South Face of Sas Ciampac, Puez group, Dolomites.
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
29/09/2014 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
On 25/07/2014 the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong completed the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (7147m) in Pakistan, climbing alpine style via a new route up the South Face. The report by expedition leader Chi-young Ahn.
The Music of Hope, new Kristallwand climb by Hansjörg Auer and Gerri Fiegl
25/09/2014 - Alpinism
The Music of Hope, new Kristallwand climb by Hansjörg Auer and Gerri Fiegl
On 9/09/2014 Hansjörg Auer and Gerhard Fiegl made the first ascent of The Music of Hope (7a, A1, 500m), a new route up the Kristallwand, Kirchkogel, Ötztal Alps, Austria.
Neil Mawson makes first ascent of Choronzon E10 7a in Wales
24/09/2014 - Climbing
Neil Mawson makes first ascent of Choronzon E10 7a in Wales
On 21 September 2014 Neil Mawson made the first ascent of Choronzon at Pembroke in Wales. Graded E10 7a, this checks in as one of the hardest trad routes in the UK.
Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition
23/09/2014 - Alpinism
Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition
The Uncharted expedition comprised of Camilo Rada, Natalia Martinez, Ines Dusaillant, Viviana Callahan and Evan Miles has made the first ascent of Volcan Aguilera (2480m) on the South Patagonian Icefield. Furthermore, during the return across the Hielos Continentales the team...
Orcoblocco, a successful first bouldering meeting in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
18/09/2014 - Events
Orcoblocco, a successful first bouldering meeting in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
The short report of the first Orcoblocco, the bouldering meeting that took place at Ceresole Reale, in Valle dell' Orco (NE Italy) from 12 to 14 September 2014.
Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos Canyon - a bouldering Mecca by Verhoeven and Saurwein
18/09/2014 - Climbing
Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos Canyon - a bouldering Mecca by Verhoeven and Saurwein
Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein, currently touring the Rocky Mountains National Park where the Dutchman recently sent The Wheel Of Chaos V14 (8B+) and the Austrian repeated Riddles in the Park V12 (8A+), provide insight into one of the most...
Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia
17/09/2014 - Alpinism
Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia
This summer Australian climbers Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner, acting on a photo taken by a Russian friend, travelled to the remote Bilibino area in eastern Russia where they made the first ascent of 6 new routes on what they...
Greenland new rock climbs by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger
15/09/2014 - Alpinism
Greenland new rock climbs by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger
This summer Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger made the first ascent of the Austrian-Swiss-Route up the SW Face of Mount Kirken, NE Greenland.