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Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
03/06/2013 - Climbing
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
Two new 8a multi-pitch climbs on Monte Santu, Baunei, one of the last virgin crags in Sardinia: Vertigine Blu" (275m, 8a max, 7a+ obl.) established by Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori and "Blu Oltremare" (315m, 8a max, 7b obl.) established by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia. Both climbs were established...
Ghost Face, new Hubshorn climb by Zanoli, Pagnoncelli, Gallian
30/05/2013 - Alpinism
Ghost Face, new Hubshorn climb by Zanoli, Pagnoncelli, Gallian
On 26 May 2013, Paolo Zanoli, Giovanni Pagnoncelli and Davide Gallian made the first ascent of Ghost Face (TD+, 850m length, 550m height) up the North East Face of Hubshorn (3192m, Pennine Alps). The peak is located on the border between Italy's Piedmont and Switzerland's Canton of Valais and the...
Gole di Gorroppu, Sardinia: new route climbed by Corrado Pibiri and Fabio Erriu
29/05/2013 - Climbing
Gole di Gorroppu, Sardinia: new route climbed by Corrado Pibiri and Fabio Erriu
In May 2013 Corrado Pibiri and Fabio Erriu made the first ascent of (475m, 6a) in Sardinia's Gole di Gorroppu.
Roland Hemetzberger and Fabian Hagenauer add difficult new climb to Morocco's Taghia Gorge
28/05/2013 - Alpinism
Roland Hemetzberger and Fabian Hagenauer add difficult new climb to Morocco's Taghia Gorge
German climbers Roland Hemetzberger and Fabian Hagenauer have made the first ascent of Tabula Rasa (250m, 8b) on the Paroi de la Cascade, Taghia, Morocco.
Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia
24/05/2013 - Climbing
Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of Raptor at Jurassic Park in Sardinia. A 25m high 7b trad climb reminiscent of the famous Right Wall, first climbed by Pete Livesey on Dinas Cromlech in Wales.
Armenia, climbing banned on the basalt columns
23/05/2013 - Climbing
Armenia, climbing banned on the basalt columns
Climbing has been baned on the famous basalt columns in Armenia including Arpa Gorge and Garni Gorge.
Palinuro, climbing above the sea and the climBrave Festival
22/05/2013 - Events
Palinuro, climbing above the sea and the climBrave Festival
Giancarlo Maritano talks about the climbing and climBrave Festival which took place last April on the beautiful beach called Molpa di Palinuro in Campania, Southern Italy.
Colonne d'Ercole, Civetta Punta Tissi, interview with Alessandro Baù
20/05/2013 - Interviews
Colonne d'Ercole, Civetta Punta Tissi, interview with Alessandro Baù
Interview with Alessandro Bau about the massive new route first ascended and then freed up Punta Tissi (NW face of Civetta, Dolomites) together with Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini.
Alexey Bolotov dies on Everest
18/05/2013 - Alpinism
Alexey Bolotov dies on Everest
On 15 May Russian alpinist Alexey Bolotov died above the Khumbu Icefall on the South Face of Everest.
Luce di Primo Mattino, Larcher makes first free ascent on Piccolo Dain
17/05/2013 - Climbing
Luce di Primo Mattino, Larcher makes first free ascent on Piccolo Dain
On 18/04/2013 Rolando Larcher made the first free ascent of Luce di Primo Mattino (435m, max 8a obl. A0), the route established by A. Andreotti, B. Menestrina e M. Furlani in 1991 on Piccolo Dain (Sarca Valley, Italy).
Pete Whittaker frees Baron Greenback at Wimberry
16/05/2013 - Climbing
Pete Whittaker frees Baron Greenback at Wimberry
On 4 May Pete Whittaker made the first ascent of Baron Greenback ta the gritstone outcrop Wimberry in England, while Tom Randall made the first repeat of Appointment with Death and Nathan Lee repeated Order of the Phoenix.
Azazar, new climb on Tadrarate (Morocco) by Aufdenblatten, Papert and Steurer
07/05/2013 - Climbing
Azazar, new climb on Tadrarate (Morocco) by Aufdenblatten, Papert and Steurer
In April 2013 Ines Papert, Lisi Steurer and Patrik Aufdenblatten made the first ascent of Azazar (400m, 8a) up the Tadrarate rock face in the Taghia Gorge, Morocco.
Climbing in Sardinia and a bit of history: Even heroes feel fear... 30 years later
06/05/2013 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia and a bit of history: Even heroes feel fear... 30 years later
30 years after the first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia returns to "Anche gli eroi hanno paura - Even heroes feel fear" the route first ascended by Alessandro Cattaneo, Beppe Domenichelli, Mondo Liggi, Cecilia Marchi and Bruno Poddesuin in Sardinia's Sette Fratelli massif in 1983 and freed by Oviglia and Roberto Monchino...
Melloblocco 2013: day nine, beauty
04/05/2013 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2013: day nine, beauty
04/05/2013. 2000 climbers had registered on the penultimate day of Melloblocco and the number is expected to grow even further. Today everyone got some great climbing done beneath a gorgeous blue sky. Many problems were sent. Expectations are high now for tonight's big party which paves the way for tomorrow's...
Melloblocco, 2013, day eight: climbing without limits
04/05/2013 - Events
Melloblocco, 2013, day eight: climbing without limits
While over 1300 Melloblockers have already registered and many more are expected, sunny Val Masino welcomed the initiative Climbing without limits promoted by the region of Lombardy, CIP, FASI, ERSAF which aims at a different form of taking to the mountains, for everyone. Paraclimbing athletes Silvia Parente, Simone Salvagnin and...
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini, hard trad ascents at Cadarese and Balmanolesca
30/04/2013 - Climbing
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini, hard trad ascents at Cadarese and Balmanolesca
At Balmanolesca in NW Italy James Pearson made the first repeat, and first trad ascent, of A Denti Stretti 8b+, while at nearby Cadarese Caroline Ciavaldini made a trad ascent of Grazie Rickie 8a+ .

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