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Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
29/11/2016 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle...
The routes climbing photographers dream of
28/11/2016 - Climbing
The routes climbing photographers dream of
Separate Reality climbed free solo by Wolfgang Güllich and Heinz Zak, Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco by Didier Berthod and Fred Moix. Maurizio Oviglia takes a closer look at the link between photographers and the climbs they have photographed.
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
25/11/2016 - Interviews
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who, leading all pitches from 14 to 21 November 2016, completed the second free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite. Considered the hardest big wall in the world, this climb was freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson between 2014 and...
Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
23/11/2016 - Interviews
Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
Interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile (3303m) Alps.
Magnificat, new rock climb at Capo d'Uomo in Tuscany
23/11/2016 - Climbing
Magnificat, new rock climb at Capo d'Uomo in Tuscany
A new multi-pitch rock climb at Capo d’Uomo, Argentario, Italy: Magnificat (6b+, 80m), first ascended by the Mountain Guide Eraldo Meraldi and dedicated to Roberto Iannilli.
Jorg Verhoeven and the El Capitan Dihedral Wall interview
21/11/2016 - Interviews
Jorg Verhoeven and the El Capitan Dihedral Wall interview
Interview with Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven after the second free ascent of Dihedral Wall, the difficult big wall climb freed in 2004 by Tommy Caldwell on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
Adam Ondra encounters first real difficulties on Dawn Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite
18/11/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra encounters first real difficulties on Dawn Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite
On his fourth day of climbing Adam Ondra has hit the first hurdle on Dawn Wall: after 7 attempts he failed to free climb the 14th pitch. Graded 9a, this is considered the most difficult up this big wall freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson on El Capitan, Yosemite...
Via RoMa, new climb on Grandes Jorasses
17/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via RoMa, new climb on Grandes Jorasses
From 26 - 28 August 2016 the Russian mountaineers Maxim Foygel and Roman Gorodischenskiy made the first ascent of 'Via RoMa' (ED 1350m 6a A2), a new route on the East Face of Pointe Walker (4208m), Grandes Jorasses (Alps). The new route shares the start of Pilastro Rosso and finishes...
Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
17/11/2016 - Alpinism
Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
Paolo Marazzi talks about his 'sailing and climbing' experience in Greenland’s Mythic Circle. The result: two new 800m climbs and above all though ‘an absolutely unique adventure in the North Sea.’
Zodiac Free on El Capitan by Jacopo Larcher & Barbara Zangerl
16/11/2016 - Climbing
Zodiac Free on El Capitan by Jacopo Larcher & Barbara Zangerl
After 5 days on the wall Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl made a free ascent of the Zodiac, the historic big wall climb on the southeast face of El Capitan, Yosemite.
Nalle Hukkataival: the Burden of Dreams trailer
14/11/2016 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival: the Burden of Dreams trailer
The trailer to 'The Lappnor project', the climbing film that documents the ascent of 'Burden of Dreams', the first boulder problem in the world to be graded 9A, freed in October 2016 by Finland's Nalle Hukkataival.
World Youth Climbing Championships: Bouldering brings second gold for Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes & Ashima Shiraishi
14/11/2016 - Competitions
World Youth Climbing Championships: Bouldering brings second gold for Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes & Ashima Shiraishi
Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes and Ashima Shiraishi all followed up their Lead victories at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Guangzhou by winning Gold in the Bouldering discipline. They were joined by Borna Cujic, Keita Dohi and Nathan Martin.
 World Youth Championships: Italy & Russia Fastest in Guangzhou
12/11/2016 - Competitions
World Youth Championships: Italy & Russia Fastest in Guangzhou
Only Italy and Russia topped the Speed podiums of the IFSC World Youth Championships in Guangzhou.
Russian direttissima up Thalay Sagar North Face
11/11/2016 - Alpinism
Russian direttissima up Thalay Sagar North Face
In September 2016 Russian mountaineers Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov made the first ascent of Moveable Feast (1400m), a difficult new climb the North Face of Thalay Sagar (6904m) in the Indian Himalayas.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, on Cima Grande Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish Das Erbe der Väter
08/11/2016 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, on Cima Grande Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish Das Erbe der Väter
Interview with South Tyrol’s Simon Gietl who, together with, Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of ‘Das Erbe der Väter’ up the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. After sharing a start with Via Comici, the new route runs to the right, breaches difficulties up to...
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.

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