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Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
11/10/2016 - Events
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
From September 30 to October 4, 2016, the first Uiju Mountain Film Festival took place in South Korea. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner was the Honorary guest, while 24 films took part in the competition. The Festival Grand Prize was awarded to Jurek by Paweł Wysoczański and the inclusion of our...
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
10/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
Mike Kosterlitz was recently awarded the Nobel Prize in Physics. Apart from his scientific genius, the Scotsman was an expert climber and mountaineer who left his mark in particular in Italy’s Orco valley with his famous Fessura Kosterlitz. By Giovanni Battimelli.
Alexander Huber rides Onda Azzurra up Monte Donneneittu in Sardinia
07/10/2016 - Climbing
Alexander Huber rides Onda Azzurra up Monte Donneneittu in Sardinia
In January 2016 Alexander Huber made the first ascent, alone, of Onda Azzurra up Monte Donneneittu at Codula di Luna in Sardinia. 240m high and with difficulties up to 8a+, this multi-pitch sports climb was freed by Huber together with Michael Althammer in April 2016.
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
06/10/2016 - Alpinism
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her July 2016 ascent, carried out with Merlin Benoit, of 'Divine Providence' (ED+, 7b+, 900m) up Grand Pilier d’Angle, Mont Blanc. This is likely to be the first free female ascent of this route established from 5 -8 July 1984 by Patrick Gabarrou and...
Dún Briste sea stack, second ascent by Iain Miller and Paulina Kaniszewska
05/10/2016 - Climbing
Dún Briste sea stack, second ascent by Iain Miller and Paulina Kaniszewska
At the end of August 2016 Iain Miller and Paulina Kaniszewska made what is believed to be only the second ascent of the iconic Dún Briste sea stack at Downpatrick Head, Ireland.
Wenden, Fabio Palma and Paolo Spreafico create La lunga attesa in Switzerland
04/10/2016 - Alpinism
Wenden, Fabio Palma and Paolo Spreafico create La lunga attesa in Switzerland
Paolo Spreafico reports about 'La lunga attesa', the new rock climb established together with Fabio Palma up the marvellous Wenden limestone in Switzerland.
Kalymnos climbing, new crags Arginonta Valley and Black Buddha
03/10/2016 - Climbing
Kalymnos climbing, new crags Arginonta Valley and Black Buddha
Aris Theodoropoulos introduces Arginonta Valley and Black Buddha, two new crags on the island of Kalymnos, Greece.
PukaNaka, new rock climb up Sas Tamersc, Fanes, Dolomites
01/10/2016 - Alpinism
PukaNaka, new rock climb up Sas Tamersc, Fanes, Dolomites
Manuel Baumgartner reports about PukaNaka (7b+, 325m) a new route he climbed with Martin Baumgartner and Toni Oboles up the SW Face of Sas Tamersc (Fanes, Dolomites).
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
30/09/2016 - Climbing
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
In spring 2016 Austrian climbers Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher made a rare free ascent of The Shaft (Muir Wall free variation) on El Capitan, Yosemite, accompanied by Ben Lepesant who provides the report.
Martina Cufar climbs her second 8c at Bionnassay
28/09/2016 - Climbing
Martina Cufar climbs her second 8c at Bionnassay
Slovenian climber Martina Cufar has redpointed her second 8c sports climb, 'Max power' at Bionnassay, France.
World Climbing Championships Paris 2016 final report
23/09/2016 - Competitions
World Climbing Championships Paris 2016 final report
The report about the IFSC World Championships that took place in Paris, France, last week. Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra hanno won the Lead title, while Petra Klingler and Tomoa Narasaki were crowned Bouldering World Champions.
Lago di Landro, sport climbing in the Dolomites
22/09/2016 - Climbing
Lago di Landro, sport climbing in the Dolomites
The sports crag Lago di Landro in the Pustertal in the Italian Dolomites, presented by Vertical-Life.info as part of our series 'Crags for each season'. Download the Vertical-Life app with the routes and topos free of charge until Saturday.
Magic Fox, new rock climb up Torre dei Sabbioni in the Dolomites
20/09/2016 - Alpinism
Magic Fox, new rock climb up Torre dei Sabbioni in the Dolomites
On Torre dei Sabbioni (Marmarole, Dolomites) Alessandro Fiori, Pier Francesco Smaltini and Simone Corte Pause have made the first ascent of Magic Fox, a new multi-pitch rock climb in memory of Alberto Bonafede and Aldo Giustina who on 31/08/2011 tragically lost their lives during a mountain rescue operation on Mt....
Val Masino, new Mongolfiera rock climb in memory of Pietro Biasini
15/09/2016 - Alpinism
Val Masino, new Mongolfiera rock climb in memory of Pietro Biasini
On the Mongolfiera face (Val Masino, Italy) Daniele Bianchi and Simone Pedeferri have made the first ascent of 'Pana' (8b, 265m). The route is named in honour of Pietro Biasini.
Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
14/09/2016 - Climbing
Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
Action Directe was established by Wolfgang Güllich on 14 September 1991 at Waldkopf in Germany's Frankenjura. The route set new new standards in sport climbing and now, precisely twenty-five years after the first ascent, Planetmountain.com takes a step back in time to discover more about one of the most famous...
Tor des Géants 2016, day 3: the decisive run
14/09/2016 - Competitions
Tor des Géants 2016, day 3: the decisive run
Italy's Oliviero Bosatelli and Lisa Borzani were in the lead last night at the end of the third day of Tor des Géants 2016.

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