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Melloblocco 2016 and the hormonal bouldering storms
17/02/2016 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2016 and the hormonal bouldering storms
The date is set for the 13th edition Melloblocco. An invitation, bordering between fantasy and history, to join the world's biggest climbing and bouldering meeting that will take place, as ever, in Italy's Val Masino - Val di Mello from...
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
17/02/2016 - Alpinism
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
Between 20 July and 9 September 2015 the Slovenian alpinists Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jošt - Matic made what are believed to be the first ascents of three previously unclimbed peaks in the India’s Raru valley: Khumchu Ri 6064m, Kun...
Cerro Torre SE Ridge Compressor Route: second free ascent. Interview with Mikey Schaefer
16/02/2016 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre SE Ridge Compressor Route: second free ascent. Interview with Mikey Schaefer
Interview with American alpinist Mikey Schaefer who, together with Andrew Rothner and Josh Wharton, carried out the second free ascent of the Southeast Ridge Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia from 4 to 6 February 2016. The first free...
La Lavagna and Luca Zardini's school of climbing
16/02/2016 - Climbing
La Lavagna and Luca Zardini's school of climbing
Two new sports climbs by Luca Zardini: "La lavagna" (8c) and "Attila" (8b+) at Lavagna del Col Drusciè (Lago Ghedina, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Dolomites). Put in other words, Luca "Canon" Zardini and the never-ending school of rock climbing. The report by...
Tom Ballard and his plan B: Pizzo Cengalo and Pizzo Badile solo one winter's morning
15/02/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard and his plan B: Pizzo Cengalo and Pizzo Badile solo one winter's morning
British alpinist Tom Ballard recounts his plan B on 30/12/2015: his winter solo ascent in a single day (in one morning) of Spigolo Vinci up Pizzo Cengalo (3369m, 400m, TD) and Via Molteni up Pizzo Badile (3308m, 400m, D+) in...
Die Leiden des Jungen Werthers, new Dolomites rock climb up Punta del Pin
12/02/2016 - Alpinism
Die Leiden des Jungen Werthers, new Dolomites rock climb up Punta del Pin
During the summer 2015 Ulrich Viertler and Raffaele Sebastiani made the first ascent of "Die Leiden des Jurgen Werther" (250m, VIII+/IX- , R3, III:EX), a new alpine trad climb up Punta del Pin, Prags Dolomites.
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita voted People's Choice Adventurer of the Year 2016
10/02/2016 - Alpinism
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita voted People's Choice Adventurer of the Year 2016
Nepal's Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita has been nominated National Geographic People’s Choice Adventurer of the Year 2016. Apart from being a highly talented mountainer, Pasang Lhamu distinguished herself for her role in relief efforts after the country suffered a severe...
Angelika Rainer flashes Next Level D13 at Usine in France
09/02/2016 - Alpinism
Angelika Rainer flashes Next Level D13 at Usine in France
Italian ice climber Angelika Rainer has flashed "Next Level", a drytooling route graded D13 located at Usine in France.
Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites
05/02/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites
British climber Tom Ballard has freed A Line Above the Sky at Tomorrow's World, Dolomites. If the D15 grade is confirmed, this climb weighs in as the hardest drytooling route in the world.
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
04/02/2016 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is...
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
03/02/2016 - Alpinism
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20...
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
02/02/2016 - Climbing
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
From 2 - 21 December 2015 Octavio Aragon, Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of El Son del Viento (5.12d, 420m) a new sports climb up the North Face of El Diente, Parque Nacional Cumbres de...
Eispark Osttirol, the new ice climbing venue in Austria
02/02/2016 - Alpinism
Eispark Osttirol, the new ice climbing venue in Austria
The Eispark Osttirol, a new ice climbing crag with approximately 50 artificial icefalls, has been inaugurated close to the Matreier Tauernhaus in East Tirol, Austria.
Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin
01/02/2016 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin
Rolando Larcher recounts the beauty of trad climbing in Italy's Valle dell'Orco: the video (by Riky Felderer) and the report of two new rock climbs on Torre di Aimonin: "Cani & Gatti" (8a+), first ascended with a mix of trad...
Ice Climbing Ecrins 2016 festival report
27/01/2016 - Events
Ice Climbing Ecrins 2016 festival report
The report about the 26th edition of Ice Climbing Ecrins, the festival that took place from 14 - 17 January at l’Argentière-La Bessée, France.
Colin Haley makes first solo climb of Torre Egger and Punta Herron in Patagonia
22/01/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley makes first solo climb of Torre Egger and Punta Herron in Patagonia
Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley who has just carried out the first solo ascent of Torre Egger (2850m) and Punta Herron (2750m) in Patagonia, requiring 16.5 hours for the ascent and 9 for the descent.

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