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Rokaloka, the fantastic highball boulder problem in Valle di Daone. By Valdo Chilese
16/12/2016 - Climbing
Rokaloka, the fantastic highball boulder problem in Valle di Daone. By Valdo Chilese
Valdo Chilese reports about the highball boulder problem Rokaloka (8A+), first ascended last September on the Orkaloka boulder in Valle di Daone, Italy.
Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner discover new ice climbs in Iceland
16/12/2016 - Alpinism
Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner discover new ice climbs in Iceland
Ice climbing: in February 2016 the Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner established a flurry of new ice climbs in Iceland, including Tröll leikhus at Austurárdalur, currently the hardest on the island.
Mountaineering: Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel breach unclimbed North Face of Gimmigela East in Nepal
15/12/2016 - Alpinism
Mountaineering: Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel breach unclimbed North Face of Gimmigela East in Nepal
Climbing from 8 - 10 November 2016, the Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel completed the first ascent of the North Face of Gimmigela East (7005m), Nepal.
Pleishornwasserfall, new ice climb on Ortler North Face
15/12/2016 - Alpinism
Pleishornwasserfall, new ice climb on Ortler North Face
On 13 December 2016 Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer made the first ascent of Pleishornwasserfall (260m, WI6, M7+, A1), the obvious drip that plunges down the Northeast Face of Ortler, at 3905m the highest mountain in Italy’s South Tyrol.
Hochbirghöhe: new ice and mixed climb in Austria’s High Tauern
14/12/2016 - Alpinism
Hochbirghöhe: new ice and mixed climb in Austria’s High Tauern
The report by Vittorio Messini who together with Isidor Poppeller and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of 'Mehr denn je Hintersee' (800m, M7+ WI6+ 08/12/2016), a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Hochbirghöhe (2767m), High Tauern, Austria.
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
13/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
Interview with British alpinist Tom Ballard after the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland), first ascended together with Marcin Tomaszewski from 29 November to 6 December 2016.
Silvio Reffo shoots up Hotel Supramonte and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco in Sardinia
06/12/2016 - Interviews
Silvio Reffo shoots up Hotel Supramonte and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco in Sardinia
Interview with Italian climber Silvio Reffo who recently repeated two of Sardinia’s most difficult multi-pitch sport climbs: Hotel Supramonte at Gola di Gorropu and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco at Punta Giradili. Climbing onsight, on both routes Reffo fell just once and freed the pitches on his second attempt.
Sébastien Berthe makes second free ascent of Heart Route on El Capitan, Yosemite
03/12/2016 - Climbing
Sébastien Berthe makes second free ascent of Heart Route on El Capitan, Yosemite
Over a 6-day period in October 2016 23-year-old Belgian Sebastien Berthe, climbing together with Simon Castagne, made the second free ascent of Free Heart Route (5.13b V10) on El Capitan.
XXI Mezzalama Trophy and VI Adamello Ski Raid, registration now open for the classic ski mountaineering competitions
01/12/2016 - Competitions
XXI Mezzalama Trophy and VI Adamello Ski Raid, registration now open for the classic ski mountaineering competitions
As of Thursday 1 December 2016 registration is open for two ski mountaineering competitions included in the prestigious La Grande Course circuit: the XXI Trofeo Mezzalama and VI Adamello Ski Raid.
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
29/11/2016 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle...
The routes climbing photographers dream of
28/11/2016 - Climbing
The routes climbing photographers dream of
Separate Reality climbed free solo by Wolfgang Güllich and Heinz Zak, Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco by Didier Berthod and Fred Moix. Maurizio Oviglia takes a closer look at the link between photographers and the climbs they have photographed.
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
25/11/2016 - Interviews
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who, leading all pitches from 14 to 21 November 2016, completed the second free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite. Considered the hardest big wall in the world, this climb was freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson between 2014 and...
Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
23/11/2016 - Interviews
Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
Interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile (3303m) Alps.
Magnificat, new rock climb at Capo d'Uomo in Tuscany
23/11/2016 - Climbing
Magnificat, new rock climb at Capo d'Uomo in Tuscany
A new multi-pitch rock climb at Capo d’Uomo, Argentario, Italy: Magnificat (6b+, 80m), first ascended by the Mountain Guide Eraldo Meraldi and dedicated to Roberto Iannilli.
Jorg Verhoeven and the El Capitan Dihedral Wall interview
21/11/2016 - Interviews
Jorg Verhoeven and the El Capitan Dihedral Wall interview
Interview with Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven after the second free ascent of Dihedral Wall, the difficult big wall climb freed in 2004 by Tommy Caldwell on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
Adam Ondra encounters first real difficulties on Dawn Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite
18/11/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra encounters first real difficulties on Dawn Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite
On his fourth day of climbing Adam Ondra has hit the first hurdle on Dawn Wall: after 7 attempts he failed to free climb the 14th pitch. Graded 9a, this is considered the most difficult up this big wall freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson on El Capitan, Yosemite...