Jain Kim, Adam Ondra, Mariia Krasavina and Qixin Zhong all win in China

The sixth stage of the IFSC Lead World Cup took place in Wujiang, China, last weekend and was won by Jain Kim from Korea and Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic. The Speed Climbing World Cup came to a close and was won by Mariia Krasavina and Qixin Zhong.
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Speed World Cup 2015 Wujiang, China: Anouck Jaubert (FRA), Mariia Krasavina (RUS), Iuliia Kaplina (RUS)
ÖWK - Heiko Wilhelm
China’s Wujiang hosted the sixth and penultimate stage of the IFSC Lead World Cup 2015 on 17 and 18 October, won for the first time this season by Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic and, for the third time this season, by Jain Kim from Korea.

In the men’s event Ondra returned to his winning form after having placed second twice this season, and he did so by climbing 4 holds higher than second-placed Domen Skofic from Slovenia, and seven more than Sean McColl from Canada who took bronze. Ramón Julien Puigblanque, the best in the Semis, placed 4th and beat Jakob Schubert (5th) and this year’s revelation Sebastian Halenke (6th), while Gautier Supper from France checked in 7th, ahead of Minoru Nakano, to cling on to his provisional lead in the overall standings. At present Supper leads with 400 points, a mere 10 more than Adam Ondra, while Schubert trails with 378, Skofic with 362 and Romain Desgranges with 335, meaning that theoretically all five stand a chance of winning the overall World Cup in the decisive last stage at Kranj on 14 and 15 November.

After the well-calibrated women’s Semifinal, the women’s Final round proved somewhat more complicated with 6 of the best falling off the same stopper move. Only Jain Kim and Anak Verhoeven made it past the point where Jessica Pilz, Hélène Janicot, Yuka Kobayashi, Mina Markovic, Magdalena Röck and Katharina Posch all tumbled. Verhoeven climbed just one hold higher before giving in to gravity, and Kim confirmed her Semifinal domination by climbing five holds further, gaining vital points in her comeback attempt to win the overall World Cup. As things stand, Mina Markovic leads the provisional ranking with 467 points, ahead of Kim 434, Pilz 410 and Verhoeven 370, meaning that just like the men’s event, things will go down to the wire in Kranj. Like in all best thrillers, the Lead World Cup 2015 will reveal its victors only in its dying stages.

Wujiang also hosted the last stage of the Speed World Cup. Last year’s winner Mariia Krasavina (RUS) won the stage and, in doing so, secured 1st place in the overall ranking, ahead of France's Anouck Jaubert (2nd in Wujiang and 2nd in the overall ranking. Edyta Ropek (POL) placed third in Wujiang but this wasn’t enough to secure bronze in the overall ranking, which went to 4th placed Iuliia Kaplina (RUS).

In the men's Speed event, Iran's Reza Alipourshena caused a major upset and made the most of Libor Hroza's fall to take gold, ahead of Bassa Mawem from France who beat Danyil Boldyrev in the small final. The 2015 gold medal went to speed master Qixin Zhong from China, while Libor Hroza took overall silver and Danyil Boldyrev overall bronze.


Wujiang Female Lead
1 Jain Kim KOR 40+
2 Anak Verhoeven BEL 34
3 Jessica Pilz AUT 33+

4 Hélène Janicot FRA 33+
5 Yuka Kobayashi JPN 33+
6 Mina Markovic SLO 33+
7 Magdalena Röck AUT 33+
8 Katharina Posch AUT 33+
9 Jenny Lavarda ITA
10 Netta Fredman ISR
10 Risa Ota JPN
12 Aya Onoe JPN
13 Delaney Miller USA
14 Tjasa Kalan SLO
15 Aika Tajima JPN
16 MOE Yoshimura JPN
17 Yuki Hiroshige JPN
18 Natsuko Shimizu JPN
19 YuZhen Baima CHN
20 Zhuoma Pubu CHN

Wujiang Male Lead
1 Adam Ondra CZE 35
2 Domen Skofic SLO 31
3 Sean Mccoll CAN 28+

4 Ramón Julian Puigblanque ESP 26+
5 Jakob Schubert AUT 22
6 Sebastian Halenke GER 21
7 Gautier Supper FRA 21
8 Minoru Nakano JPN 10
9 Naoki Shimatani JPN
10 KEIICHIRO Korenaga JPN
11 Francesco Vettorata ITA
12 Romain Desgranges FRA
13 Elan Jonasmcrae CAN
14 Bernhard Röck AUT
15 Max Rudigier AUT
16 Shinichiro Nomura JPN
17 Loïc Timmermans BEL
18 Mario Lechner AUT
19 Haibin Qu CHN
20 Zida Ma CHN
21 Christoph Hanke GER
22 Qinghua Wang CHN
23 Naoto Hakamada JPN
24 Changfeng Qu CHN
25 Martin Jech CZE
26 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA
27 Tomoaki Takata JPN
28 Cheung- chi, Shoji Chan HKG
29 ZhaXi Bianba CHN

Wujiang Female Speed
1 Mariia Krasavina RUS 7.86
2 Anouck Jaubert FRA 8.12
3 Edyta Ropek POL

4 Iuliia Kaplina RUS
5 Aleksandra Rudzinska POL
6 Alla Marenych UKR
7 Klaudia Buczek POL
8 Anna Tsyganova RUS
9 Alexandra Elmer AUT
10 Nina Lach AUT
11 Svetlana Motovilova RUS
12 Andrea Rojas ECU
13 Zhuoma Pubu CHN
14 Risa Ota JPN
15 Jain Kim KOR
16 Anna Brozek POL

Wujiang Male Speed
1 Reza Alipourshena. IRI 6.06
2 Libor Hroza CZE fall
3 Bassa Mawem FRA

4 Danyil Boldyrev UKR
5 Marcin Dzienski POL
6 Aleksandr Shilov RUS
7 Stanislav Kokorin RUS
8 Qixin Zhong CHN
9 ZhiYong Ou CHN
10 Quentin Nambot FRA
11 Vladislav Deulin RUS
12 Morteza Mohammadi IRI
13 Guillaume Moro FRA
14 Penghui Lin CHN
15 Michal Lewicki POL
16 Evgenii Vaitsekhovsk. RUS
17 Zida Ma CHN
18 Jungju Kim KOR
19 Sean Mccoll CAN
20 ZhaXi Bianba CHN
21 Naoto Hakamada JPN



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