China Bouldering and Difficulty results

Jérôme Meyer and Sandrine Levet win the Bouldering event in Huzou, while Tomás Mrázek and Angela Eiter win the Difficulty event in Shanghai. Levet and Daniel Dulac win the 2004 Bouldering World Cup
Better late than never, the results of the World Cup in China: Jérôme Meyer and Sandrine Levet won the Bouldering event in Huzou on 3 October, while Tomás Mrázek and Angela Eiter won the Difficulty event in Shanghai a week later.

Bouldering
The final stage of the Women's Bouldering World Cup 2004 was won, unsurprisingly, by Sandrine Levet. The Frenchwoman crowned off an impressive year, with 5 straight victories, and only one second place, in front of the home crowd at Argentiere. This complete domination left little space for title contenders, and Olga Bibik had to contend with third place in China, and second place overall in the final WC ranking. Thankfully for her she won the coveted European Championship in Lecco in June, but we're sure that she had hoped to be more in the running. Ioulia Abramtchouk is the surprise, or rather, confirmation, of this season, as she placed second in China and third overall. But this trio will have train diligently for 2005, as a number of fresh new faces have begun to make a name for themselves: Anna Stöhr from Austria, Mélanie Son and Juliette Danion from France are just a few to watch out for next year.

Jerome Meyer finally got into the swing of things in China, right at the last moment. After a difficult year, the Frenchman finished the season in the best way possible, beating ever-present Salavat Rakhmetov and globetrotter Tomasz Olesky. Ludovic Laurence showed why he is feared by placing fourth, beating two-times WC stages winner Kilian Fischhuber into fifth place. Daniel Dulac placed seventh, but this did nothing to stop the "master climber" and mountain guide from winning his first ever WC title. His road to overall victory was convincingly steady: two 1st places, one 2nd, one 3rd, one 7th and one 11th. Add to this his European Champion title, and you get an unbeatable, and nigh-on unrepeatable year! Kilian Fischhuber from Austria placed second overall, ahead of Dulac's teammate Jerome Meyer.


Difficulty
Tomás Mrázek and Angela Eiter won the 5th stage of the World Cup 2004, ahead of Maxim Petrenko and Patxi Usobiaga, second and third respectively, and Caroline Ciavaldini and Muriel Sarkany (joint second) and Bettina Schöpf.

After victory in Marbella, Mrázek continues to extend his lead, especially since Chabot's "terrible" 19th place results in a 169 point gap. Chabot's China experience means that he now has to watch out for the likes of Pouvreau, 5th in Shanghai and trailing by just 28 points. But there are still four more stages left and these two protagonists have taught us in the past that nothing is impossible.

The women's field is much more evenly matched, with Sarkany and Eiter exchanging turns on the podium. The Belgian's lead is currently 62 points, and they'll fight hard... not to make any mistakes. Young Caroline Ciavaldini from France seems to be emerging strongly and will definitely be someone to watch out for, as is the European Champion Bettina Schöpf and Slovenian Natalija Gros, 5th in Shanghai.

The next stage of the World Cup will be held in Aprica, Italy on 22 October.


Bouldering results men - Huzou
1 Meyer Jérôme FRA
2 Rakhmetov Salavat RUS
3 Oleksy Tomasz POL
4 Laurence Ludovic FRA
5 Fischhuber Kilian AUT
6 Benk Christian GER
7 Dulac Daniel FRA
8 Kazbekov Serik UKR
9 Parry Gareth GBR
10 Matsushima Akito JPN
11 Julien Stephane FRA
12 Müller Matthias SUI
13 Jongeneelen Wouter NED
14 Kim Jang Hyuk KOR
15 Gaidioz Loïc FRA
16 Croxall Mark GBR
17 Mogaki Keita JPN
18 Lai Chi-Wai HKG
19 Watanabe Kasuma JPN
20 Chu Ka-Wai HKG

Bouldering results women - Huzou
1 Levet Sandrine FRA
2 Abramtchouk Ioulia RUS
3 Bibik Olga RUS
4 Stöhr Anna AUT
5 Son Mélanie FRA
6 Lavarda Jenny ITA
7 Perlova Natalia UKR
8 Danion Juliette FRA
9 Bacher Barbara AUT
10 Ogawa Tomoko JPN
11 Berry Samantha AUS
12 Huang Li-Ping CHN
13 Martin Sancho Berta ESP
14 Togawa Yukiko JPN
15 Liu Gui-Ying CHN
16 He Cuifang CHN
17 Wong Ming-o HKG
18 Tan Li Ying, Suzanna SIN
19 Tai Chika JPN
20 Li Chun-Hua CHN

Difficulty results men - Shanghai
1 Mrázek Tomás CZE
2 Petrenko Maxim UKR
3 Usobiaga Patxi ESP
4 Millet Sylvain FRA
5 Pouvreau Gérome FRA
6 Crespi Flavio ITA
7 Becan Klemen SLO
8 Puigblanque Ramón Julián ESP
9 Auclair François FRA
10 Fischhuber Kilian AUT
11 Verhoeven Jorg NED
12 Vinokur Vadim USA
12 Zardini Luca ITA
14 Fuselier Mickael FRA
15 Oleksy Tomasz POL
16 Bindhammer Andreas GER
17 Kazbekov Serik UKR
18 Son Sang-Won KOR
19 Chabot Alexandre FRA
20 Ozawa Shinta JPN

Difficulty results women - Shanghai
1 Eiter Angela AUT
2 Ciavaldini Caroline FRA
3 Sarkany Muriel BEL
4 Schöpf Bettina AUT
5 Kobayashi Yuka JPN
6 Gros Natalija SLO
7 Kim Ja-In KOR
8 Lavarda Jenny ITA
9 Eyer Alexandra SUI
10 Stöhr Anna AUT
11 Shalahina Olha UKR
12 Go Mi-Sun KOR
13 Martin Delphine FRA
14 Bacher Barbara AUT
15 Huang Li-Ping CHN
16 Li Chun-Hua CHN
17 Madate Tomoko JPN
18 Kysilkova Tereza CZE
19 Raffetseder Gerda AUT
20 Saurwein Katharina AUT


Marbella World Cup Difficulty 2004
World Cup Bouldering 2004
Huzou (CHN)
6th stage
24 October
Marbella World Cup Difficulty 2004
Photos top:
Sandrine Levet at Fiera di Primiero during the 3rd stage of the Bouldering World Cup Boulder 2004 (ph Claudio Piscina). Daniel Dulac at the Rock Master 2004 (ph Giulio Malfer)
Angela Eiter
World Cup Difficulty 2004
Shanghai (CHN)
5th stage
2-3 October
Tomás Mrázek
Photos:
Angela Eiter and Tomás Mrázek at the Rock Master 2004 (ph PlanetMountain)

Bouldering 2004
1. Birmingham
2. Erlangen
3. Fiera di Primiero
4. Argentiere
5. Bardonecchia
Final results

Difficulty 2004
1. Puurs
2. Imst
3. Chamonix
4. Marbella
Prov. results


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