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Zeitgeist on Roßkopf, new rock climb by Haid and Klingler in Austria

Markus Haid and Florian Klingler have made the first ascent of Zeitgeist (300m, 7c+, 7b obligatory) up Roßkopf, Rofangebirge, Austria.

Planetmountain

September 2013

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Zeitgeist (300m, 7c+, 7b obbl, Markus Haid, Florian Klingler 09/2012) Roßkopf, Rofan Gebirge, Austria.

archivio Florian Klingler

The route dates back to a year ago, but it's nevertheless worth reporting about effort to Zeitgeist, the climb first ascended by Markus Haid and Florian Klingler up the NW face of Roßkopf in Austria's Rofangebirge. The route is located on the same face as Goldrausch, the difficult line which received a direct finish in August 2012 at the hands of Hansjörg Auer, and it was on the very same day that Auer climbed Goldrausch that Klingler and Haid spotted their new line.

In two September days in 2012 Klingler and Haid established the new route ground-up and the details are as follows: 7c+ max, 7b obligatory, 300m and only 25 bolts on the pitches, all the rest protected with natural gear.

Klingler described Zeitgeist to Planetmountain as follows: "The route follows an obvious crack system that stops at the smooth, compact slabs at circa half-height. Our aim was to find a way to free climb this section, using as few bolts as possible. Wherever there are cracks there are no bolts and the only bolts we considered necessary were placed on lead or hanging off a cliff-hook. So no A0 hanging off the last peg, because for us the route had to be an adventure. The crux climbs some very compact rock and I fell off a couple of times with the drill in hand, either because I ran out of energy, or because the cliff-hook snapped off. The quality of the rock and the actual climbing are, not only on this pitch, absolutely brilliant."