Sébastien Bouin delights in The Dream 9b, the most difficult sports climb in Albania

Christmas arrived early for Sébastien Bouin who has made the first ascent of the 9b The Dream at Brar in Albania. The area caught international attention last year thanks to Adam Ondra who on his visit described the crag as offering "the best tufa climbing I have ever seen. No kidding, absolutely serious. It is a fairy-tale."

After establishing the 8c+ Four for Glory Ondra then bolted a line immediately to the right but unfortunately, as highlighted in the video below, even for him two days were not enough to free the line. "50 meter perfection on some of the most amazing tufas I have ever climbed on" was Onda’s comment afterwards.

Bouin obviously couldn’t ignore these words. The 26-year-old Frenchman traveled to Albania in late November specifically with this line in mind, but often encountered wet conditions. Bouin fell off the crux several times due to the seeping holds but last Monday conditions were absolutely perfect for freeing Albania’s hardest.

The Dream caps a stellar year for Bouin who, in addition to numerous top-level repeats such as Mamichula 9b at Oliana in Spain and Move 9b/+ at Flatanger in Norway, had put up the 9b/+ La Rage d'Adam in September in France’s Verdon Gorge.


Link: FB Sébastien Bouin, Black Diamond