Sardinia climbing news: all the routes on Monte Oddeu, Dorgali

This winter yet another modern multi-pitch rock climb was put up on Monte Oddeu, the peak in Sardinia which, more than any other, is becoming a huge playground this style of climbing on the Italian island. The routes aren’t too long, the approach is short, the limestone is fabulous, the different aspects provide the choice of whether to climb in the sun or the shade ... all make up for the lack of a view out onto the sea (and if you want this, too, then I recommend a trip to Masua on the other side of the island).

The new route was put up by Marco Marceddu and Daniele Turco, two young climbers from Carbonia. Although they have little experience at establishing new routes ground-up (experience is a key factor), they did an excellent job in creating a completely bolted plaisir climb, neither particularly difficult nor exposed.

The curious name L’imbrago… bello stretto - Harness… nice and tight, is actually in honor of Oskar Piazza (who died in Nepal last year), who was Marco and Daniele’s Mountain Rescue instructor. Oskar often recommend this to his students before beginning the course…

This multi-pitch route now provides me with the opportunity to update the routes on the righthand side of the facer (the most popular sector). The numbers reflect those from my last guidebook Pietra di Luna Trad & Multipitches (Fabula Editore 2014), with the addition of the most recent new routes.

MONTE ODDEU ROCK CLIMBS (Dorgali, Sardinia)
Name, style, height, Diff. max Diff. Obligatory, first ascentionists
1 SPIGOLO NORD - Trad (R1) 180m IV C. Andreatta, E. Beber, G. Cagnati (1973)
2 CODINA DI TOPO - Mix (RS2) 160m 6a 5c obbl. C. Pibiri, F. Erriu (2008)
3 COMPAGNI DI VIAGGIO - Mix (RS1+) 210m 6a+ 6a+ obbl. F. Cappa, E. Pinotti, P. Romanini (2000)
4 BANG BOOM BANG - Sport (S1+) 200m 6b 6a obbl.M. Schaefer & c. (2013)
5 MEDIO VERME - Trad (R2) 305m VI G. Cicconi, S. Finocchi, M. Forcatura, M. Tacchi (1981)
6 PREGO PORCINI - Trad (R1+) 225m 6a+ 6a obbl.F. Figueroa, R. Thivel (1998)
7 POR EL PUEBLO OPRIMIDO - Sport (S2) 240m 6c 6a obbl.P. Pezzolato, S. Gojak (1998)
8 BO TEP MIX (RS2) 200m 6c+ 6b+ obbl.C. Zampati, N. Tiraboschi. L Ceron (1998)
8a L'IMBRAGO BELLO STRETTO - Sport (S1) 185m 6b 6a obbl.M. Marceddu, D. Turco (2015)
9 EST-ASIA - Sport (S2+) 170m 6c 6b obbl. M. Oviglia, S. Sarti (1999)
10 VIVERE DI SOGNI - Sport (S2) 155m 6c+ 6c obbl. C. Marchi, M. Oviglia, M. Zurru (1994)
11 VIA DEI FINANZIERI - Mix (RS2) 260m 6b+ 5c obbl. E. Beber, A. Partel (1973)
12 AURUM TELLUS - Sport (S1+) 80m 6b+ 6b+ obbl. C. Conca, N. Putzu (2002)
13 ABBAS ABBADAS - Sport (S1) 200m 6b+ 6a obbl. C. Conca (2000)
14 ALFREDO ALFREDO - Sport (S1+) 200m 7a 6b obbl. C. Pibiri, F. Erriu (2012)
15 MADAME BOVARY - Sport (S2) 200m 7a 6b obbl. E. Lecis (1995)
15a CORRI CONIGLIO CORRI - Sport (S2+) 210m 6c+/A0 6b obbl. M. Ogliengo, B. Villa (2015)
16 ATTENTI A QUEI DUE - Sport (S2+) 200m 7a+ 6b+ obbl. M. Ogliengo, B. Villa (2014)
17 APPOINTMENT WITH THE BEER - Sport (S2) 200m 6c+ 6b obbl. J. Bassier, M. Schaefer (2012)
18 LA MIA AFRICA - Sport (S2) 200m 6c 6b obbl. C. Marchi, M. Oviglia (1994)
18a A CHENT'ANNOS - Mix (R1/S3) 200m 7a 6b obbl. R. Vigliani, L. Siliani (2015)
19 LA NOSTRA SVIZZERA - Sport (S1+) 235m 6c 6a+ obbl. C. Marchi, M. Oviglia, E. Pinotti (2012)
20 TRE TAZZE DI TE' - Sport (S2) 210m 6b 6a obbl. C. Pibiri, F. Erriu (2011)
21 NIRVANA - Sport (S2+) 300m 7b 6b obbl. E. Lecis & C. (1997)
22 SALE GROSSO - Mix (RS2) 255m 6c+ 6a+ obbl. A. Calvo, L. Nadali (1997)
23 MARGARITES - Sport (R1+) 220m 7a+ 6b+ obbl. A. Calvo, L. Nadali (1997)
24 BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB - Sport (S2+) 7a+ 6c obbl. L. Nadali, L. Ceron (1999)