1 / 1Martina Demmel climbs beautiful Kochel testpieces
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Felix BubDespite extremely cold temperatures, in November Martina Demmel managed to make two fine redpoints at Kochel am See in Germany. On the 5th the 20-year-old repeated Heim nach Afrika, a linkup of three existing routes that checks in at 9a. As such it is the second of this grade for Demmel. More importantly, Heim nach Afrika was her "dream-line" and "main goal since November 2020". Must have been satisfying to tick that one off!
A few days later Demmel made short work of Chaos in Palumbia, an 8c+ at nearby Atlantiswand. She unlocked all the moves of this Toni Lamprecht classic on her first go, and needed just 12 attempts spread out over five session for the redpoint. This was carried out at the end of November and with the thermometer not rising above 2°C. A hot stone in her chalkbag "saved my life" and had it not been for for a sudden footslip while standing up to clip the chains she could have required one attempt less.
Demmel, a former ski racer, caught international attention in 2021 for onsighting the 8b+ Humildes pa casa at Oliana in Spain and for redpointing nearby Joe-cita, her first 9a just four years after having started climbing. In mid-September she joined the elite German police sports squad and while her main focus in the future will no doubt be on competitions, evidently she's managing to make her days at the crag decisive.
Link: La Sportiva, Petzl
