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Kalymnos new rock climbs

The update for all the new routes established on Kalymnos in 2010 and the latest climbs created by Claude and Yves Remy.

Planetmountain

May 2011

Traduci in

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Palionisos bay on the Greek island of Kalymnos

Nikolaos Smalios

New routing on Kalymnos shows no signs of slowing down whatsoever! During a brief 10 days at the end of March and the beginning of April Claude and Yves Remy continued their love affair with this Greek island and produced two new sectors and added a flurry of new climbs to existing sectors, detailed below.

All of these routes join the cauldron of new climbs established by local and visiting climbers after the launch of the new guidebook in October 2010 - including the fantastic looking Palionisos bay on the NE part of the island - necessitating a May 2011 update which can be downloaded here. Looks like an another excellent reason why to join the international Climbing Festival at the end of the month which this year will host climbers such as Patxi Usobiaga and Nicolas Favresse!

SECTOR GREAT CANYON New sector between Arhi right and Sea breeze left side. Approach: park as to go to Pocket Wall – Sea Breeze and follow the gorge to the entrance of the canyon, go up right, blue marks, to the foot of the grey slab, 8 – 10 minutes. Here are the routes 1 to 9. These routes start by an easy slab, cross a big ledge then go to a vertical wall. Most of the wall is steep, white/red on the left, grey in the middle and white/red on the right. For routes 10 to 16, walk up on the right 1 min more, follow the ramp to the big ledge. Routes on the right are in overhang and in shadow most of the time. Often rock is sharp but most of the climbs are well protected.
Melomakaronas	6c	35m
Mystic Land	7a	35m
Plastic Surgery Disaster	7b	32m
Art in the Air	7a	34m
Vromikos	6c	33m
Boulderhoelle	6b+	33m
Xazouli	6b	32m
Xazouli Ext	6c	38m
Me Ponaï	6c	32m
From the big ledge
Rock Out	6c	20m
Loubis's Angels	6b	20m
Brave a New World	5c+
The next routes are short but very powerful
Divine Comedie	7a
Sex Pistols	7a
Tzatziki kai Sokolate	7b
Beta Lambda	7b+

SECTOR BIG SHADOW This new sector is the “big wall” above the road between Kasteli – Arginonta, exposure north-east, there is a bit of sun in the morning. Approach: soon after the big turn of Kasteli/Dolphin Bay sectors, on the right of the road there is a small concrete building, park. Follow the 3 first electric poles and the red marks-cairns, then straight up the left side of the vague ridge, cross a small rock band, then follow small ledges of the left side to the base of Big Shadow, 40 minutes.Some routes start by a short scrambling section. All routes have been made from the bottom. We will come back to make more routes and extensions, so thanks to wait before making more routes.
Metralos	6a+	30m
Cacou	6a+	25m
Vicking	6a	25m
Directos	6b	30m
Grim	6b	30m
Grim Ext	6c+	50m
Cosi	7a+	30m
Taupe	7b	28m
Right, in the orange cave
Ratten	7a	20m

SECTOR GREY ZONE Left of Pocket Wall
Fasolada	6a
In Dubio	6a
Falakro	5b+
*Right of Strats for Heroes*
Saphirniac	6c	38m
*Right of Kill the Cock*
Utopia	6a	20m
Utopia Ext	6c	36m

SECTOR ARGINONTA 30m left of Studio Fatolitis (subsector Holiday) there is a grey slab full up good holds, routes are very well protected.
Bolt-Obsession	4c
BB	5a	20m
Takis rare	4a
No Blabla Do It	4b
Mammut Step	4c
*Right of Bouboulina (Infrared Wall)*
Koubinos	6b
*Right of Pornokini*
Test Under Stress	6c
*Right of* No Sleep
Romance of Stone	6c	28m
Extension of Avri
Kolhinet Kafhouille	7a