Enrico Baistrocchi: California, climbing, work and a touch of nostalgia

Climbers "emigrate" and as a result we’d like to share the experience of Enrico "Baistra" Baistrocchi, one of Italy’s most famous climbers and boulderers. As many are aware, Baistrocchi left Italy a while ago and currently resides with his family in San Diego, California, where he works as a route setter and climbing coach at the MesaRim Climbing and Fitness Gym, as well as being the distributor of the climbing clothing brand E9. His journey, experience and job on the other side of the pond is, on closer inspection, merely the natural progression of what Baistrocchi has always done: making climbing his way of life.

That’s why as soon as he arrived in California, Baistrocchi continued to do what he does best, climbing over rock if possible, visiting the most famous bouldering areas but also keeping an eye on Mt.Woodson. This little gem located just a few miles north of San Diego is famous for its crack climbing on perfect smooth granite.

After making some fast first repeats of some of Mt.Woodson’s difficult problems, "Baistra" started to develop and free some lines that include the hardest in the area, Ancora Vivo (V12). His latest project called Lacrime e Sorrisi is located in the new sector Little Italy, a great little climbing gem that came about thanks to the altruism of local climbers Mark Kattus and Doug Tomczik who discovered and saw the potential of these boulders forgotten about in the bush.

So as not to forget, here are the thoughts Baistrocchi sent us - all of us - from the States. They are a dedication and an ode to the spirit of climbing and the bonds that are created through climbing.

ANCORA VIVO by Enrico Baistrocchi
"You gotta control your smiles and cries, because that's all you have and nobody can take that away from you." Training Day - Antoine Fuqua - 2001

New rock, California, Mt.Woodson, lines as far as the eye can see... smiles.
Missing my friends, nostalgia, it’s tough... tears.
I call them, not as much as I’d need to... smiles.
Climbing, good feelings, perfect weather, a 360° view from the top of a problem... smiles.
Painful jams, I just can’t climb them, these crap cracks... tears.
They take the piss, but I do what I’m best at… and climb without jamming... smiles.
There’ll be plenty of tears before I learn properly.
Attempts, cleaning, discoveries, loads of enthusiasm ... smiles.
Attempts, failure, curses, messages from friends at Melloblocco ... tears.
Trees are pruned, rock brushed, landings prepared, watch out for those rattlesnakes, wake up early to escape the heat, motivation... smiles.
I can’t do this move, frustration sets in, try, try again, no excuses ... tears.
"C'mon" what a bore, I miss the Italian "duro frate"... tears.
I stick it, mantle, send a message to Mauro, messages to friends, race home to the girls, it’s time to hit the beach... smiles.
A circle has been closed, but there’s already another project ... ancora vivo, still alive, means the time is ripe for more tears and smiles.

"You gotta control your smiles and cries ..."

The photos were taken by Jake Stein

Info about climbing at Mt.Woodson can be found on www.mountainproject.com