Bernd Zangerl and Dreamtime at Cresciano

The Austrian Bernd Zangerl makes the first repeat of Fred Nicole's Dreamtime 8c, Tessino, Switzerland

June 2001

The first time Bernd Zangerl laid eyes on Dreamtime, or rather what was later to become Dreamtime, was last summer while searching for new boulder problems at Cresciano Switzerland. Unaware that this amazing line was Fred Nicole’s project, he knew he just had to try it. A few months later he heard that Fred had climbed the problem, now known as Dreamtime. A dream rated 8c.

Bernd attempted the line immediately after its first ascent in November and, despite poor weather conditions, made good progress. Since the final section was either wet or frozen he worked the dry start and the middle, sometimes however having to opt for coffee and the drive back to Tyrol as Dreamtime was so wet.

Conditions finally improved in February and everyone thought Bernd would make it. But this was not the case. Bouldering is an incognito and even Bernd couldn’t figure out why he was unable to climb the line. He decided therefore not to try it again until autumn and during this mental-break he did some other boulder problems including “Bloody Kisses” and “Die Unendliche Geschichte”.... In wait for autumn.

But it rained constantly in Tyrol in April and Bernd thought he might just go on holiday down to Tessin with his brother. Despite higher temperatures he decided to try Dreamtime again and, suprrisingly, the moves worked well. Bernd set himself a week’s deadline to realise his dream. He was back again on Sunday 15 April, and at 7 pm he tried the stunning line for his friends and… fell on the last move.

He didn’t want to try it again that day but Thomas Steinbrugger recommended he wait and try again later. So at 9.30 Bernd and Thomas returned with two gas lamps to illuminate the holds . The wind had stopped blowing completely, the temperature was not ideal and Bernd thought it might be better to try the next day. But, as often happens in bouldering, his partner pushed him to try one more time. They lit the two gas lamps and Bernd set off. Moments later he was on top. Finally, after months of trying, he was jumping, shouting and screaming the tension out into the night. This was the first repeat of Dreamtime.

Bernd Zangerl in action on Dreamtime 8c, Tessin (Switzerland)
Photos Beat Kammerlander

PlanetMountain news (24/11/00) Fred Nicole frees Dreamtime