Surprising new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy

A few years ago, I had noticed this great line that crossed the overhang above the classic icefall L'Orco va in Vacanza, and this year I decided it was time to give it a try.

On 18 January 18th, together with unstoppable Lorenzo Zanella and master Marco Ronchi, who happened to be a complete novice at this type of climbing, we found ourselves at the start of this project. The first two pitches (the same as L'Orco va in Vacanza) were dispatched with quickly, then came the third pitch; right from the its steep vertical start I realised that I'd have to shift into sport mode. Somehow I managed to find the safest line as I made my way past curtains, drips and some cauliflower-like formations. After a delicate traverse, I reached a spot where I decided to set up the belay. I'd just climbed one of my most beautiful and challenging ice pitches ever, and I recommend future ascensionists to take care and not underestimate its difficulties.

Lorenzo sped up to the stance and, armed with patience, got ready to belay me on the next pitch, the crux of the route. Marco decided to stay below and take some photos.

I set off determined and energized; after placing a screw at the highest point of a column, I climbed the first mixed section I reached a good ice bulge where I hung on with my ice axe and placed the first bolt. The climbing above remained demanding, very physical and delicate, until I reached the summit cornice, where I finally managed to catch my breath and set up the second belay and rappel down.

On 22 January I returned with Marco with the goal of finishing the route, and after that great ice pitch we found ourselves at the last belay, ready to establish the final pitch. This would turn out to be the cherry on top of this route — a technical and precarious pitch with thin drips that needed a gentle touch. From the belay, I was lowered for a few meters, then I traversed right. I climbed fragile ice, placed a short screw, then a questionable cam, and, like walking on eggshells, I carefully climbed until I could place the first bolt, which would also be the only one on the entire pitch. A few more meters, a second, good cam, and then, as the saying goes, I “give it all” to then find myself on easy terrain. Here I realised it was done — the project I had wanted to establish for so many years was now complete.

I'd like to thank my friends who had the will and patience to follow me on this crazy adventure, Lorenzo and Marco; without your help, none of this would have been possible. I would also like to thank my friend Gianni Dorigo who, from the ground, took the photos of me establishing the last pitch.