Matterhorn Freedom by Robert Jasper and Rainer Treppte

At the end of August 2001 the Germans Robert Jasper and Rainer Treppte climbed a major new route on the North Face of the Matterhorn (4474m). Taking five days to complete, the 30 pitch ‘Freedom’ has all the makings of being the hardest route on the Matterhorn: VIII-, A2 and M5+. Taking a line up the western flank of the North Face, the 1100m long route climbs up through the renowned 'Zmutt Nose'.

PM Why this face?
Jasper "I tried a route up this North Face in 1994 but had to retreat due to bad weather. The Face is extremely famous and, for me, the Matterhorn is one of the most beautiful mountains. This was the main reason why I returned, combined of course with the challenge of the line, which I’ve always regarded as an end in itself."

PM Can you compare this to your other routes?
Jasper "Just like my other routes this is on a beautiful mountain and the “physical” aspect is an important factor, but apart from this it’s difficult to find concrete comparisons. My route on the Eiger (Symphonie de liberté, 1999) has difficulties of up to 8a in a great alpine environment. Here though I was in search of new ideas. Freedom can be divided up into three different sections: the first, 400m of mixed rock and ice, is followed by a second section on friable, steep and overhanging rock, which in turn is followed by 300m of mixed climbing to the summit."

PM The current trend is to make major first ascents further afield. Is this new route of yours on one of the most famous Alpine a return to “classic” mountaineering? What motivates you to express yourself in this sort of environment?
Jasper "It’s true, everyone’s off to the Himalayas, me included as I travelled to Bhagirathi III to climb a new line, but unfortunately we were turned back by the terrible weather conditions. I grew up in the Alps and it saddens me when I hear that no one is interested in finding new lines on our mountains. One often hears that there’s nothing left to do, but I’m convinced that there’s plenty, especially on the great North Faces, now that mixed climbing has progressed so much. Our new line on the Matterhorn didn’t solve the last great problem, for this had already been done by Gogna in 1969. But there remained a vast expanse of steep, unclimbed rock, a true challenge for alpinists. As you can see, you don’t necessarily have to travel all the way to the Himalaya’s…"

Robert Jasper - 1968 - Mountain Guide and professional climber
Curriculum

Alps
Eiger North Face
1st solo ascent of "Spit Verdonesque"(8-A1) and 1st ascent of "Symphonie de liberte", the first ever 8a on one of the great alpine north faces..
Matterhorn North Face
Schmidroute with variation in just 5 hours.
Grandes Jorasses North Face

Crags
Up to 8b+ “L´amour egocentrique”

Expeditions
Cerro Torre (Patagonia)
fastest ascent to date (16.5 hrs)
Cerro Standhardt (Patagonia)
4th ascent
Nuptse Est (Himalaya-Everest)
2nd ascent of Diamond Tower (7200m)
Mt. McKinley 6194m (Alaska)
2different routes in just 4 days...
Vagakallen, North Pillar
1st ascent of the Bigwall "Freya" 9 - A3+ 800m

Ice
Tomahawk M10+/ 11- (Lauterbrunnertal, Switzerland)
The Empire strikes back M10+ (Val di Cogne, Italy)