Jernej Kruder repeats Piz dal Nas on Titlis in Switzerland

Jernej Kruder has completed the first repeat of Piz dal Nas, a 500m 8b multi-pitch on the North Face of Titlis in Switzerland established in 2008 by Matthias König, Daniel Schulze and Matthias Trottmann and freed by Trottmann two years later.

Teaming up with Marco Jubes, Kruder climbed the route in three days, with two bivies at the good ledge. Writing to planetmountain.com, the Slovenian explained "The first day was crazy. Finding the line in fog was close to impossible and the lower part of the line was soaking wet. Since we'd already lost 4 hours getting there, we immediately started climbing, regardless of the risks we were taking. Luckily everything went smoothly and we reached the "Hotel Titlis" ledge in the afternoon. We were way too tired to try the first hard pitches. After enjoying the view, we settled in for a cold night. We didn't hurry too much in the morning as we waited for the temperatures to rise a bit.

I did the next two 8b pitches on my second go. These were followed by a horrible 7b, that sapped all my energy. Having just one jacket on that cold, windy and foggy day certainly didn't help me with my recovery and I almost told Marco to bail. I was frozen and the last pitch, an 8a+, looked desperate, but I gave it a go anyway. It turned out to be a long, juggy overhang, and I hoped to send it on my second go. Without any rest at all I set off again and then fought my way up the nose. Footholds kept snapping off, it was as if I'd forgotten how to use my feet... but I succeeded! I was on top! After a quick abseil we reached the bivy, where we decided to spent another night that was even colder than the previous one. The next day we abseiled off, returned to the car and had dinner with Matthias!"

In 2015 on Titlis at Engelberg Kruder repeated the 8b+ multi-pitch Hattori Hanzo.

Links: FB Jernej Kruder, SCARPA, Ocun