Climbing in the Dolomites: Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher find and free Oblivion

While making the first ascents of Spaßbremse and Hart aber fair in 2014 on the Piz dla Dorada rock face in Alta Badia, Dolomites, the two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher noticed a large yellow face with an obvious, inviting roof at 2/3 of height. After some research they realised that the entire wall was still virgin and so on 13 May 2015 they approached the peak above Colfosco and put up the first 3 pitches. Climbing diagonally from left to right they managed to reach the large corner but at this point, tired and with time running out, they retreated. Due to work commitments and expeditions the two returned only one year later, on 12 April 2016.

Gietl and Oberbacher intended to climb the route without bolts and, using a mix of free climbing and aid, added another two pitches to reach the base of the big roof. Once again they had to bail and a few days later they were back; in order to save time and energy they traversed in from the side to reach their previous highpoint. With the help of aid they breached the 6 meter roof and placed belay 5 meters above the lip. They were now certain they’d reach the summit later that day but the Dolomite rock proved less accommodating and after only 3 meters they were forced to return home empty handed once again. Two more days were needed to complete the last two pitches and on 21June 2017, Gietl and Oberbacher finally made the first free ascent.

The new climb is called Oblivion, is the first on the wall named Piz Ander and breaches difficulties up to IX. Gietl told planetmountain.com"I’ve never climbed something so breathtaking, steep and with such good rock with plenty of holds. It’s nature's gift!"


Link: www.simongietl.it, www.grivel.com, www.salewa.it Neolit, Komperdell, Fischer, Evolv, Beal, Lyofood, Hotel Schwarzenstein