Napoleonica
Rock climbing in Trieste goes back a long way: generations of climbers have sped out to the nearby hills immediately after work to enjoy the limestone delights of Napoleonica, Val Rosandra and Costiera, and many, like Emilio Comici, have left their mark for others to enjoy and test their skill.
One of the most famous crags near Trieste is the Napoleonica; perched on a hill overlooking the city and its bay, this panorama is Italy's answer to Montecarlo.
Nearby Costiera is another small crag of considerable value: steep overhangs and fierce slabs combine above the water's edge to ensure a fantastic day out, before watching the sun go down and retreating to one of the many famous trattorie for a well-earned evening's meal.
If you are after a combination of tradition and relax, testpieces and trattorie, then come to Trieste. She won't disappoint
Trieste is situated in the extreme NE of Italy, on the border with Slovenia. Take the A4 Venice - Trieste motorway which finishes at Trieste. Continue along the dual carriageway and exit shortly afterwards following signs for "Prosecco". Turn left at the first crossroad and left again at the next junction. Turn right 40m after this following signs for "Santuario di Monte Grisa". Drive past the sanctuary (splendid views over Trieste) on your left and continue to the next crossroad. A dead-end street leads left via a fountain to the crag
LogisticsTrieste is a bustling city with many places to eat out and lots to offer. Accommodation can be found easily. Contact the official tourist office under www.triestetourism.it
PeriodAll sectors face southwest and receive the sun from 11/12.00am onwards. The best time of year is therefore spring, autumn and winter.
ClimbThe sectors
1. Above Napoleonica
Nice new sector with 8 routes from 6b - 7c. White slabs with small edges. Not sheltered from the Bora, perfect for spring or autumn.
Access: from the fountain take the path that leads from away from it. Turn right at the cairn (5 mins) following the grassy track to the crag.
2. Napoleonica
Napoleonica is divided up into many smaller sectors and these combined contain routes from 4a - 8b, desperate boulder problems and traverses up to 8a. This historic crag has long been the testing ground for the locals and has seen sport climbing in all its stages, from pegs and bolts to chipped and resined holds.
Good footwork and stamina are essential, but since Napoleonica has something for everyone, a visit here is obligatory.
Recommended routes: Cico ,Texi 4c, BananaRama 5c/6a, Lo Scudo 6c+, Hells Bells 7b+, Atmosfera Zero, Poker D'assi 7c, Orcobaleno 8a and Mud Club 8a.
- Climbing is possible beneath the central sector if it rains slightly.
3. The towers beneath Napoleonica
Three towers beneath Napoleonica are reached via abseil. Good slab climbing in a seemingly isolated position. 20 routes from 6a - 7a+.
60/70m ropes recommended.
4. Grotta del cane or Fontana
Small cave with 13 routes 6b - 8a+. Powerful and technical routes, hard to on-sight.
Recommended routes: la Fontana 6c, Scorpions 7b, Oklaoma 7c, Martedì Grasso 8a e Skywalker 8a+.
Access: opposite the fountain a path leads from the hand rail down towards the sea (3 mins).
5. Olimpo
7 great routes characterised by edges and small pockets - the view is great, too.
Access: from the Grotta del cane continue right for another 5 minutes.
6. Luna Park
Another 7 fingery routes from 4c - 7b. Slabs and corners.
Access: as for Mani di Fatima and continue past 'Parallele' ( 5 mins), alternatively continue from Olimpo for 5 minutes.
7. Parallele
See description
8. Mani di Fatima
See description
Highly technical climbing on small edges.
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ushuaia | 7a/b | ||
2 | This is not Holliwood | 6b/c | ||
3 | Mano di Fatima | 6a | ||
4 | Maktub | 6c | ||
5 | Surimono | 6b | ||
6 | La guerra dei nervi | 7c+ | ||
7 | Fadiga | (progetto 8b?) | ||
8 | Sacro e profano | (8b?) | ||
9 | Il padrone assoluto | 8a/+ | ||
Chiodata da Andrea Varnerin 'Arci', 1990 circa, prima libera Mauro Bole 'Bubu', 1998, secondo giro. | ||||
10 | Harakiri | 7b+ | ||
11 | L'obliqua 7b+ | (lunga 8a) | ||
12 | Banzai | 7a | ||
13 | Gocce di salvezza | 6a+ | ||
14 | Confucio | 6c+ | ||
15 | Il cipresso nel cortile | 6c | ||
16 | Veleno nel cuore | 7a+ | ||
17 | Shobogenzoo | 6b+ | ||
18 | Sol levante | 5c |
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La fessura | 5a+ | ||
2 | La fonte della giovinezza | 4c | ||
3 | La via accanto | 4c | ||
4 | Orecchie d'asino | 4c | ||
5 | Brodo way | 6c | ||
6 | Il tagliaerbe | 6b | ||
7 | Algatraz | 6b | ||
8 | Il giro | 5c | ||
9 | Equinozio | 5c | ||
10 | Brez Imena | 6b | ||
11 | Ezio e le storie tese | 6b | ||
12 | Calimero | 6b | ||
13 | Nave scuola | 4b | ||
14 | Le parallele | 5a | ||
15 | Campanula | 4c | ||
16 | Go bisogno di te | 3c | ||
17 | Corso 98 | 3c |
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Texi | 12m | 4c | |
2 | Franchica | 12m | 5a | |
3 | Spigolo giallo | 12m | 5c+ | |
4 | Mr.Grease | 12m | 6a | |
5 | Carioca | 12m | 6a | |
6 | Varianta | 12m | 6a+ | |
7 | Isidoro | 12m | 6a | |
8 | Mago Merlino | 12m | 6b | |
9 | Noarci | 12m | 6a | |
10 | Bombastic | 12m | 5c | |
11 | Jarg | 12m | 5c | |
12 | Old Time | 12m | 5b | |
13 | Stu Ledi | 10m | 5b | |
14 | Napogames | 10m | 6a | |
15 | Rock Labirinth | 10m | 6b+ | |
16 | Clorophille | 10m | 6b+ | |
17 | Cico | 10m | 4c | |
18 | Re artu | 12m | 6a+ | |
19 | Mumble | 12m | 5c |
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
20 | Q6 | 12m | 6a | |
21 | Q7 | 12m | 5c | |
22 | Viola mania | 10m | 5a | |
23 | Irish coffe | 10m | 5c | |
24 | Black out | 10m | 6b+ | |
25 | Bananarama | 12m | 6a | |
26 | Gratta e vinci | 12m | 6a+ | |
27 | Cuba libre | 10m | 7b+ | |
28 | Via del teran | 12m | 6b | |
29 | Stinger | 12m | 6b |
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mr Crocodile | 12m | 7a+ | |
2 | Managua ext | 17m | 7b | |
2 | Managua | 15m | 7a+ | |
3 | Ratataplan | 17m | 7b | |
4 | Mud Club | 18m | 8a+ | |
5 | Telefono Azzurro | 17m | 7a+ | |
6 | Scudo | 20m | 7a+ | |
7 | Wild wind | 20m | 8a | |
8 | Poker d’assi | 18m | 7c/c+ | |
9 | Orcobaleno | 15m | 8b | |
10 | Romantische strasse | 10m | 8a | |
11 | Scala Reale | 10m | 7a+ |