Villanuova
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Kazikli Canyon: Zeynep Tantekin climbing Seme di Girasole 7b+
Ozturk Kayikci
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6b - 8b/c
Height
30m
Routes number
30
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
SW
Rope
70m rope
Villanuova is a historic little crag in the Carnia region of NE Italy, ideal for sport climbing in winter. Most of the development took place during the '90's by Toni Cattarino and Alex Cucchiaro and they were joined by Luciano 'Chen' Cimenti, certainly one of the strongest climbers in Italy at the time. In recent years Gianni 'Doc' Cattaino and friends have added some new routes and re-equipped some old ones.
Access
Take the motorway A23, exit at Tolmezzo and follow signs for this town by taking the SS52. After circa 6km bear right, following signs for Villa Santina. Reach this and bear right towards Sappada to reach Sot Clap, 100m after the sign on the left for Raveo. park on the left close to the cycle path or on the right, but not in the inviting field as this is private property. From the car park take the obvious path, sign-posted for Loc. Avaglio. Walk past the barriers and close to the scree slope follow the track rightwards which leads up to the base of the crag, circa 15 minutes from the car. Period
The crag receives the sun from the morning to evening and this favourable aspect means that climbing can take place even on cold, but sunny, winter days. Climb
The limestone is extremely compact with small crimps and little pockets, offering technical stamina climbing. Smooth slabs and vertical faces are broken by short, physically demanding cruxes. Some of the harder routes have resin here and there - in keeping with the 90's - but this takes nothing away from the beauty of Villanuova which really is worth a visit. The routes are equipped with 10mm stainless steel or resin bolts.
Take the motorway A23, exit at Tolmezzo and follow signs for this town by taking the SS52. After circa 6km bear right, following signs for Villa Santina. Reach this and bear right towards Sappada to reach Sot Clap, 100m after the sign on the left for Raveo. park on the left close to the cycle path or on the right, but not in the inviting field as this is private property. From the car park take the obvious path, sign-posted for Loc. Avaglio. Walk past the barriers and close to the scree slope follow the track rightwards which leads up to the base of the crag, circa 15 minutes from the car. Period
The crag receives the sun from the morning to evening and this favourable aspect means that climbing can take place even on cold, but sunny, winter days. Climb
The limestone is extremely compact with small crimps and little pockets, offering technical stamina climbing. Smooth slabs and vertical faces are broken by short, physically demanding cruxes. Some of the harder routes have resin here and there - in keeping with the 90's - but this takes nothing away from the beauty of Villanuova which really is worth a visit. The routes are equipped with 10mm stainless steel or resin bolts.
Sectors
Jet Deniel
The routes are listed from left to right.
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | T.N.T. | 15m | 8a | |
Dopo la rottura di un appiglio attende una ripetizione | ||||
2 | Jet Deniel | 15m | 8b/c | |
Prima libera Luciano Cimenti secoli fa, grado proposto 8a+, l'unico ripetitore ad oggi Mattia Casanova propone 8b/c | ||||
3 | S.n. | 15m | ? | |
Progetto. |
Settore Principale
Sector principale is located 20m to the right of jet Deniel. The routes are listed from left to right.
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | S.n. | 28m | 6b/b+ | |
2 | S.n. | 28m | 6c | |
Partenza in comune con la 1 e uscita a dx su 3 | ||||
3 | Spazzola e distintivo | 28m | 8a/a+ | |
Vecchia via chiodata da Toni e liberata da Mattia Casanova a febbraio 2011. | ||||
4 | S.n. | 28m | 7c | |
5 | S.n. | 28m | 7c+ | |
Da riliberare dopo la rottura di un appiglio | ||||
6 | Climbers di primavera | 20m | 6b+ | |
7 | Lorens d'Arabia | 20m | 6c+ | |
8 | Pane modestia e spazzolino | 20m | 7c | |
9 | Caribian Club | 22m | 7b+ | |
10 | Turista fai da te | 22m | 7c+ | |
11 | L'attimo sfuggente | 25m | 8a | |
Stando sulla linea degli spit senza andare a riposare nel diedro fessura a dx | ||||
12 | La sera leoni... | 30m | 7c/c+ | |
Da riliberare dopo la rottura di un appiglio sul tetto | ||||
13 | ...la mattina C... | 30m | 8a/a+ | |
Partenza indipendente, dal tetto in comune con la 12, da riliberare dopo la rottura di un appiglio | ||||
14 | La guerra dei gradi | 30m | 8b | |
Via storica! Prima parte di dita più fisica la sezione del tetto. | ||||
15 | S.n. | 30m | P | |
16 | Alexander | 30m | 7c+ | |
Sale dritta sul tetto | ||||
16 | Alexander var. di destra | 28m | 7b/b+ | |
Aggira il tetto a dx poi si raccorda con la linea originale n. 16 | ||||
17 | I love music | 28m | 7a+ | |
Primo spit in comune con Alexander poi a dx su cordone. | ||||
17 | I love music var. di dx | 30m | 7b | |
Bella via di ampio respiro | ||||
18 | Svalutescion | 20m | 7c | |
19 | Flautolenza | 20m | 6c/c+ | |
20 | S.n. | 20m | 6b+ | |
21 | S.n. | 20m | 7a+ | |
22 | Piccoli Maestri | 20m | 7a/a+ | |
23 | Libera nos a malo | 20m | 7b | |
24 | S.n. | 20m | 6b |
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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6b - 8b/c
Height
30m
Routes number
30
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
SW
Rope
70m rope
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