Nicholas Hobley, photos Adam Long
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Chequers Buttress HVS 5a, Froggatt Edge, England
Adam Long
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
M - E9
Height
25m
Routes number
200
Rock type
Gritstone
Orientation
W
Rope
2 half ropes.


Overlooking the Derwent Valley, Froggatt Edge with its daring technical slabs and rounded buttresses is one of the favourite gritstone destinations in the entire Peak District. Much like at many of the other nearby outcrops, this crag was quarried throughout the 17th and 18th century resulting in plenty of well-protected crags and the steep technical faces which offer some of the finest slab outings in the country.

The classic Three Pebble Slab HVS 5a is a great introduction to this crag, while Joe Brown's somewhat stiffer The Great Slab E3 5b rates as one of the finest of its grade. Nearby Downhill Racer E4 6a is a different proposition altogether, and despite Jerry Moffat's feat of downclimbing it solo or Johnny Dawes' famous one handed solo ascent, the route remains a stern, serious lead.

Just round the corner stands one of the finest lines on grit: the blank arête of Beau Geste; first climbed in 1982 by Johnny Woodward using 3 ropes, this E7 6c has still seen only a handful of repeats. Sadly many climbers have used this route for toprope practice and the loss of some crucial pebbles was foreseeable. The route remains a formidable challenge though, as John Allen famously stated: "Beau Geste - it seemed to me that its ascent was a moment of inspiration fired by desire.... a classic natural sculpture and challenge.... made to be climbed, but only by the best."

Access

From Sheffield there are two main approaches to Froggatt Edge, both from the A625 Fox House to Calver road. Each option takes approximately fifteen to twenty minutes to reach the main crag. The most popular approach is along the wide, flat path above the edge, which starts from the White Gate (O.S. ref. SK 254776) about 500m south of The Grouse Inn. Limited (thoughtful!) parking is possible alongside the road just north of the gate. Alternatively, a National Trust car park exists farther up the road towards the inn.

Logistics

Accommodation in Hathersage. Campsite at North Lees.

Period

Spring and autumn. On clear winter days the friction is at its best, but beware of strong winds.

Climb

Gritstone climbing at its best: technical, balancy, powerful and pumpy all at the same time. The crag is suitable for families.

Notes

The Peak District
Squashed between the northern industrial cities Manchester and Sheffield, the Peak District has always been a haven of peace for those fleeing these massive industrial metropolis in search of solitude and untouched nature. Dotted within this rolling countryside are rugged gritstone outcrops, each unique, each with routes of almost all grades and danger levels. "God's own rock", as it is often described, can be so addictive that it is not uncommon to see climbers continuing even when it rains; saner wet weather alternatives include a visit to one of the numerous indoor climbing walls or an enormous mug of tea in a cafe.

Photos by Adam Long www.adamlong.co.uk

Bibliography

Froggatt to Black Rocks - the Definitive Guide by Niall Grimes, BMC
Eastern Grit - by Chris Craggs and Alan James, RockFax




Sectors

Great Slab Area
Great Slab Area One of the finest series of slab climbs on gritstone, taking exquisite technical lines, often in the boldest of situations. The cleanest technique and utmost confidence are required to succeed on these great climbs. Most of the lines, tak
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
30 Long John’s Left-Hand 12m E6 6c
31 Long John’s Slab 11m E3 5c
32 Downhill Racer 14m E4 6a
33 Slab Recess Direct 14m HS 4b
34 Joe’s Slab Arete V3 (6a)
35 Joe’s Slab V1 (5c)
36 Joe’s Slab Traverse V7 (6b)
37 Slab Recess 18m D
38 Gamma 12m HD
39 Allen's Slab 19m S 4a
40 Polyp Piece 10m E7 6c
41 Swing 15m HVS 5a
42 Trapeze Direct 12m VS 5a
43 Trapeze 14m VD
44 Alpha 12m HVS 5b
45 Nursery Slab 9m M
46 Heartless Hare 11m E5 5c
47 Jugged Hare 13m E6 6a
48 The Great Slab 19m E3 5b
49 Lonely Heart 16m E9 6c
50 Art Brut 15m E7 6b
51 Hairless Heart 16m E5 5c
52 Artless 16m E5 6b
53 Hairy Heart 19m E6 6a
54 Toy Boy 15m E7 7a
55 Synopsis 13m E2 5c
56 Parting Hare 20m E3 5c
57 Beta 12m VD
58 Spine Chiller 15m E4 5c
59 Spinal Crack V2 (5c)
60 Spinal Tap V5 (6b)
61 Nutty Land 15m E1 5c
62 Flake Gully 15m HD
63 Straight and Narrow 14m E3 6a





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
M - E9
Height
25m
Routes number
200
Rock type
Gritstone
Orientation
W
Rope
2 half ropes.


Position



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