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Crags > Stanage Edge

Stanage Edge

England>Derbyshire - Peak District>Derbyshire>Hathersage
Nicholas Hobley, photos Alessandro Baù
Traduci in
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Elio Bonfanti
Rocca Nera di Caprie
Beauty
Sectors
GO
Difficulty
M - E8
Height
25m
Link
www.thebmc.co.uk
Routes number
1300
Rock type
Gritstone
Orientation
W
Rope
2 half ropes.


The immense 7km long Stanage Edge is certainly the most famous gritstone crag in England. The outcrop is highly popular, partly because of its proximity to both Sheffield and Manchester, but above all due of its wealth of quality routes. The first climbs date all the way back to 1890 and over 1300 routes have now been established along the edge, ranging from Moderate to desperate E8 - enough to last a lifetime! The vast majority of routes are relatively easy and ideal therefore for beginners as they tend to follow well-protected crack lines. Having said that, the smooth faces and rounded arête are a brilliant natural playground for those in search of quality testpieces. Climbers visiting the area for the first time shouldn't miss out on the Flying Buttress at the Popular End and the routes on High Neb. Joe Brown's 1949 Right Unconquerable HVS 5a is the classic route of the crag, but Quietus E2 5c and Old Friends E4 5c are equally famous. The stunning barn door arête Archangel E3 5b at Goliath's Groove is psychologically demanding while its neighbour Ulysses E6 6b is a rite of passage to the upper extremes. The highly popular Plantation area hosts some of the finest and most famous boulder problems in the country, such as the dream crescendio Crescent Arete Fb 5+, Not to be Taken Away Fb6c, The Green Traverse Fb7a, Brad Pitt Fb7c+ and Jerry Moffat's The Joker Fb 8a. The outcrop varies in height up to 25m and due to its hilltop location can, at times, be extremely windy and cold. Luckily Hathersage with its warm cafes and welcoming pubs is nearby.

Access

From Sheffield or Manchester drive to Hathersage along the A6187. From the centre of Hathersage bear right down Dale Bottom and continue until the southern end of the crag springs into view. Popular End (South end) Park at Hooks Carr (SK 245830). Walk in from the parking in about 5 mins. There is also a bus from Sheffield, check out the link below. Plantation Area (central section of the crag) Turn off left and coast the crag until you reach the Plantation (Hollin Bank) parking on the right. High Neb (North end) The Stanage Bus from Sheffield or continue past the Plantation to the limited car parking at SK 227843 (Dennis Knoll). Calculate 30 minutes for the walk-in.

Logistics

Accommodation in Hathersage. Campsite at North Lees, just 15 minutes walk from the cliff. (01433 650383).

Period

Spring and autumn. On clear winter days the friction is at its best, but beware of strong winds.

Climb

Gritstone climbing at its best: technical, balancy, powerful and pumpy all at the same time. The crag is ideal for families.

Notes

The Peak District
Squashed between the northern industrial cities Manchester and Sheffield, the Peak District has always been a haven of peace for those fleeing these massive industrial metropolis in search of solitude and untouched nature. Dotted within this rolling countryside are rugged gritstone outcrops, each unique, each with routes of almost all grades and danger levels. "God's own rock", as it is often described, can be so addictive that it is not uncommon to see climbers continuing even when it rains; saner wet weather alternatives include a visit to one of the numerous indoor climbing walls or an enormous mug of tea in a cafe.

Stanage Access Issues
Stanage is one of the most frequented crags in the world. On busy weekends parking can be a problem and the Peak District National Park Authority have introduced a series of traffic management measures to address this. Furthermore, there are problems with car crime in the Stanage area. Do not leave any valubles on display. For full information check out www.thebmc.co.uk and download the Stanage bus timetable.

Bibliography


Stanage - the Definitive Guide by Niall Grimes, BMC


Eastern Grit - by Chris Craggs and Alan James, RockFax


Map: OS Landranger 110

Stanage: The Left Unconquerable - Alesandro Baù Stanage: Quietus Right Hand E4 - Alesandro Baù Stanage: Quietus Right Hand E4 - Alesandro Baù Stanage: Quietus Right Hand E4 - Alesandro Baù Stanage - Alesandro Baù Stanage: Dave Douglas su Green Traverse 6b, Plantation Boulders - Nicholas Hobley Stanage: Dave Douglas su Green Traverse 6b, Plantation Boulders - Nicholas Hobley The Peak District - Nicholas Hobley Stanage: Guy Maddox su Green Traverse 6b, Plantation Boulders - Nicholas Hobley Stanage: Merk vs The Vice HVS 5b - Maddox archive Stanage - Alesandro Baù Stanage - Alesandro Baù Stanage - Alesandro Baù Stanage: Quietus E2 - Alesandro Baù Stanage: Quietus - Alesandro Baù Stanage - Alesandro Baù Stanage: Crossover E2 - Alesandro Baù Stanage - Alesandro Baù
See all photos



Sectors

Goliath's Area
Goliath's Area is located above the Plantation, circa halfway along the crag. To get there stroll up from the Plantation Path from the Plantation (Hollin Bank) parking in 10 minutes.
Routes
N° Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 The Introvert 8m E2 5c
2 Outlook Buttress 10m HVS 5b
3 Tying the Knot 9m E3 6a
4 Look Before you Leap 8m E1 5c/6b
5 Outlook Layback 7m S 4a
6 A Thousand Natural Shocks 6m HVS 5c
7 Weather Report 9m E6 6b
8 Nordes with Attitude 9m E4 6c
9 Outlook Crack 8m VS 4c
10 Outlook Chimney 7m VS 5a
11 Didn't Get Where I am Today 8m E2 5b
12 Lookout Flake 7m S 4b
13 Shard 7m HVS 5b
14 Splinter 7m HVS 5b
15 Rebel Yell 10m VS 4c
16 Tales of Yankee Power 10m E1 5c
17 Flaky Wall 10m E1 5b
18 Bastille 10m E1 5b
19 Shaky Gully 8m S
20 Amphitheatre Face 8m VS 5a/c
21 Ladder Cracks 8m VD
22 Ladder Corner 8m M
23 Tears and Guts 8m E2 6a
24 Whimper 7m S 4a
25 Argus 8m E2 5b
26 Silk 16m E6 6c
27 Silk Start V7 (6c)
28 Fern Crack 16m VS 5a
29 Polished Bump V7 (6c)
30 Help the Aged V7 (6c)
31 Help Right-Hand V8 (6c)
32 Fern Groove 17m E2 5c
33 Smash Your Glasses 9m E5 6b
34 Toothcomb 12m VS 4c
35 Virginia Calling 14m HVS 5a
36 Wall End Slab 22m VS 5a
37 Bridge's Variation 14m VS 5a
38 Wall End Slab Super Duper Direct 14m E3 5c
39 Wall End Slab Direct 15m E3 5c
40 Pure, White and Deadly 14m E2 5c
41 Wall End Grab V3 (6a)
42 Impure, Grey and Mildly Threatening 6m S 4b
43 Narlavision 7m HVS 5b
44 Standing Around Trying 7m VS 5a
45 Sittin' here Drinkin' 7m HVS 5b
46 Jammed Stone Chimney 8m HD
47 Doesn'tneedaweed 6m HVD
48 The Prince V6 (6b)
49 Bunny Wailer V5 (6b)
50 Mo Tucker V1 (5b)
51 Mate 7m E1 5b
52 Cheque 7m VD
53 Frankie Ferocious 7m E3 6a
54 Giro 9m E2 5c
55 P.O. Crack 8m VS 4c
56 Slanting Chimney 10m HS 4b
57 The Coign 16m HS 4b
58 Outlook Slab 16m VS 5a
59 Wall End Crack 16m S 4b
60 Death and Night and Blood 18m E1 5b
61 Wall End Flake Crack 20m VS 4c
62 Wall End Holly Tree Crack 18m HS 4b
63 I Never Said It Was Any Good 18m E1 5b
64 Helfenstein's Struggle 20m VD
65 Saul's Arête 22m VS 4b
66 Dark Angel 21m E2 5b
67 The Archangel 20m E3 5b
68 Don 21m E4 5c
69 Goliath's Groove 21m HVS 5a
70 Ulysses 20m E6 6b
71 Holly Bush Gully Left 21m HS 4b
72 White Wand 23m E5 6a
73 Holly Bush Gully Right 20m D
74 The Wall End Traverse 70m VS 4c
75 Fairy Groove V5 (6b)
76 Gnome Man's Land 20m E5 6b
77 Fairy Steps 15m VS 4a
78 Double Act 12m HVS 5c





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Beauty
Sectors
GO
Difficulty
M - E8
Height
25m
Link
www.thebmc.co.uk
Routes number
1300
Rock type
Gritstone
Orientation
W
Rope
2 half ropes.


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