Nicholas Hobley & Niall Grimes, photos Alex Messenger
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Rock climbing at Millstone, England
Alex Messenger
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
D - E8
Height
40m
Routes number
200
Rock type
Gritstone
Orientation
West, North
Rope
2 half ropes.


Along with Stanage, Froggatt and Burbage, Millstone is regarded as one of the most popular gritstone crags in the Peak District. As a result of the intense quarrying the outcrop is characterised by smooth, fritionless vertical faces, fierce cracks, imposing corners and a series of bold arêtes which includes two of the most sought-after routes in the country: Edge Lane and Master's Edge.

The unprotectable left-hand arête in the aptly named Corners Area was first ascended by Alan McHardy in 1974 and although a bold outing, its relatively easy crux (at the top) ensures that Edge Lane has become one of the most desired E5's in the country. Master's Edge immediately to the right needs little introduction and this 1983 work-of-art stands as a timeless testament to Ron Fawcett's brilliance and determination. Young Jerry Moffat, who had had his eyes set on the route, stated at the time that only a true master would one day be able to solo it on-sight, hence the name. Its boldness and technical difficulties have repelled all but the most gifted and no one, as yet, has risen to this audacious challenge.

Just before these routes lies the Embankment Wall Area which hosts one of the finest selection of climbs of all, including John Allen's awesome London Wall E5 6a. First ascended in 1975, this quintessential crack climb is extremely pumpy but, unlike many of the other routes here, completely protectable. Other three star outings include the The Mall, Bond Street, Great Portland Street, Regent Street, Coventry Street... the list is a long one and a trip here will certainly ensure a far greater adrenalin rush than on the more famous streets of London!

Access

From Sheffield or Manchester drive to Hathersage. The crag is clearly visible above Hathersage: take the A6187 (Sheffield Road) and park in the large pay & display car park above the crag. Take one of the paths across the moor to the crag. The areas are reached in 10 minutes. An alternative approach, especially if visiting the north end, is to park in limited parking on the road that leads down from Higgar Tor. Follow a scenic path through the birch trees to the crag.

Logistics

Accommodation in Hathersage. Campsite at North Lees.

Period

Spring and autumn. On clear winter days the friction is at its best, but beware of strong winds as the crag is positioned near the top of the hill above Hathersage and therefore receives the brunt of any bad weather.

Climb

Steep face and crack climbs, both technical and powerful, as well as balancy arêtes.

Notes

The Peak District
Squashed between the northern industrial cities Manchester and Sheffield, the Peak District has always been a haven of peace for those fleeing these massive industrial metropolis in search of solitude and untouched nature. Dotted within this rolling countryside are rugged gritstone outcrops, each unique, each with routes of almost all grades and danger levels. "God's own rock", as it is often described, can be so addictive that it is not uncommon to see climbers continuing even when it rains; saner wet weather alternatives include a visit to one of the numerous indoor climbing walls or an enormous mug of tea in a cafe.

Millstone access issues
Voluntary restrictions to access are agreed annually if ravens or peregrines nest here. Please look out for signs during the nesting season. Any restrictions are regularly reviewed and lifted once the birds have fledged, at which time the signs will be removed. For full information check out www.thebmc.co.uk

Photos by Alex Messenger www.alexmessenger.co.uk

Bibliography

Burbage, Millstone & Beyond by Niall Grimes, BMC
Eastern Grit by Chris Craggs e Alan James, RockFax




Sectors

Corners Area
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Stone Dri 15m E2 6a
1976/78
2 Crew Cut HVS 4c
3 Under Doctor’s Orders 20m E2 5c
1951-57/87
4 Jealous Pensioner 20m E4 5c
1978
5 Xanadu 35m E4 6a
1969/74
6 The Trumpton Anarchist 12m E6 6b
1988
7 Adios Amigo 15m E5 6b
1985
8 Great West Road 19m, 19m E2 5b, 5b
1956/69/75
9 Edge Lane 18m E5 5c
1974
10 Green Death 18m E5 6b
1969
11 Green Death Superdirect V8 (7a)
12 Master’s Edge E7 6b
1983
13 The Bad and the Beautiful 15m E7 6b
1987
14 Great Arête 16m E5 5c
1974
15 Stranger in Paradise 16m E5 6a
1994
16 Knightsbridge 35m E2 5b, 5c
1951-57/73
17 Scoop Crack 32m VS 4b
1957-65
18 The Scoop 35m D
1951-57
19 Detour 40m E2 5c
1975
20 The Hunter House Road Toad 15m E5 6b
1985
21 Clock People 15m E6 6c
1984
22 Watling Street 15m E2 5b
1957-65
23 By-Pass 40m HVS 5a
1963
24 Great North Road 35m HVS 5a
1956/57
25 Quality Street 30m E5 6b, 6a
1983
26 Deaf Dog V1 (HVS 5b)
27 Master Chef V8 (6c)
28 Technical Baiter V1 (HVS 5b)
29 Technical Master Left-Hand V5 (6b)
30 Technical Master V4 (6b)
Embankment Wall Area
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
31 Embankment Route 1 27m E2 4c, 5c
1957-65/75
32 Blind Bat 20m E4 5c
1965-72/76
33 10,000 Maniacs/Elm Street 10m E8 6c
1994
34 Who Wants the World? 10m E5 6a
1981
35 Embankment Route 2 25m VS 4c, 4b
1957-65
36 Scritto’s Republic 15m E7 6c
1951-78/82
37 Embankment Route 3 25m E1 5b, 5b
1957-65/70/75
38 Time for Tea E3 5c
1974
39 Tea for Two 20m E4 6a
1982
40 Embankment Route 4 22m E1 5b
1951-57/75
41 Whitehall 25m HVS 5a
1951-57/69
42 Lotto 25m E1 5c
1957-65/75
43 Little Lotto Arête V2 (5c)
44 Seventies Style Wall V4 (6a)
45 Covent Garden VS 4b, 4b
1956
46 Scruples 22m E5 6b
1987
47 Bond Street 22m HVS 5a
1951-57
48 Monopoly 21m E7 6b
1983/84
49 Great Portland Street 20m HVS 5b
1951-57/63
50 White Wall 22m E5 6b
1969/76
51 The Mall 22m VS 4c
1951-57/57
52 London Wall 22m E5 6a
1956/75
53 Urban Sprawl 22m E6 6b
1997
54 Badly Bred 24m E1 5c
1977
Keyhole Cave Area
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
55 Lambeth Chimney 22m HS 4b
1951-57
56 Old Kent Road 25m D
1951-57
57 Alopecia 18m HVS 5a
1957-65
58 Petticoat Lane 25m HVS 4b
1956
59 Bow Street 20m HVS 5b
1956/67
60 Metal Rash 25m E1 5b
1978
61 Brixton Road 20m VD
1951-57
62 Skywalk 25m VS 4b
1957-65
63 The Economist 20m E6 6b
2004
64 Adam Smith’s Invisible Hand 20m E6 6b
1984
65 The Rack 13m E5 6a
1957-65/82
66 Oxford Street 22m E3 5a, 6b
1956/69
67 The Keyhole Traverse V8 (6c)
68 Piccadilly Circus 25m E2 5a, 5c
1957-65/76
69 Coventry Street 22m E5 6b
1956/76
70 Jermyn Street 25m E5 6a
1956/75
71 Regent Street 20m E2 5c
1956/68
72 Regent Street Direct Start 20m E3 5c
1975
73 Wall Street Crash 20m E5 6b
1983
74 Shaftesbury Avenue 20m HVS 5a
1956/67
75 The Whore 20m HVS 5b
1975
76 Gimcrack 24m VS 4c
1962
77 At-a-Cliff 25m VS 4c
1977
78 Happy Wanderer 25m VS 4c
1957-65
79 Oriel 15m VS 5a
1957-65
80 Pot Leg Wall V2 (HVS 5c)
1976





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
D - E8
Height
40m
Routes number
200
Rock type
Gritstone
Orientation
West, North
Rope
2 half ropes.


Position



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