Jernej Kruder libera Ellipsis sul Bila Pec a Sella Nevea

Due anni dopo aver aperto Ellipsis sulla parete est del Bila pec nella magnifica conca di Sella Nevea nelle Alpi Giulie, Jernej Kruder ha ora trovato il tassello mancante e ha effettuato la prima libera della linea.

La via di cinque tiri era stata aperta dal 29enne climber insieme agli sloveni Gašper Pintar e David Debeljak usando sia nuts, friends e chiodi, sia spit dove necessario; dopo tre giorni di apertura dal basso la via di 200 metri vantava soltanto 28 spit e difficoltà stimate attorno all’ 8b+.

Soltanto l’altro giorno Kruder ha trovato il coraggio di ritornare e, insieme a Urh Primožič, ha effettuato la prima libera in giornata. I primi tre tiri sono filati lisci - 7b+, 7a+ e 8a rispettivamente - mentre il tiro chiave di 8b+ e il 7c finale ha richiesto a Kruder uno sforzo notevole.

Link: FB Jernej Kruder, SCARPA, Ocun

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Ellipsis, 8b+ (7b+,7a+,8a,8b+,7c) FA Story begins back in 2018 when I teamed up with strong and visionary guys @pinticlimbs and @slod4ve . They saw a nice looking line in a steep 200 meters wall of Bila pec. They didn't know how difficult and challenging it can be, but they were sure it's not going to be save or possible without bolts. They took the alpine gear and I took the bolts and drilling tool for 3 days of work. We spent 26 (+2 additional ones) bolts including anchors and some pitons. Route seemed very challenging and I needed 2 years to find courage to come back. After 3 days of work, I came back with @urhprimozic on very good, dry conditions. First 3 pithes (7b+, 7a+ and 8a) went down pretty easy, but still I wasn't sure about 4th, hardest pitch. I gave it a go and I failed. I failed because on previous tries I was mentally and physically too tired to figure out the moves properly. This time I found perfect beta and sent it second go . I still had time to finish the last 7c pitch on which I was also missing a move. I must say, I fought the most in this one, but got lucky enough I didn't fall. This was my longest big wall project, and I'm very proud I can call it a first ascent . @pinticlimbs @slod4ve @urhprimozic @sonilmose thanks again for this beautiful story!!! : @markgrmek ______________________ @scarpaspa @ocun.climbing @vibram @snowmonkey

A post shared by Jernej Kruder (@kruderjernej) on Sep 6, 2020 at 7:15am PDT