Zanzara e Labbradoro - Monte Colodri
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Beppe Ballico
An absolute masterpiece, established over three days in September 1983 by Manolo and Roberto Bassi by abseiling in from above, Zanzara e Labbradoro is perhaps the most sought-after multi-pitch sport climb in Arco and the entire Sarca Valley. The route offers technical climbing up exceptional rock and climbs the stunning white pillar that dominates the east face of Monte Colodri. For many years this multipitch was considered an important reference route and despite its age it has lost none of its appeal.
After an easy start the third pitch checks in at 7a+, the climb’s technical crux. This is followed by an exposed sideways traverse, graded 6c, which should not be underestimated, and nor should the next 7a pitch. After this blazing start through the Parete del Diamante the intensity drops, at least, on paper, but climbing the remaining pitches free up the Pilastro from the half-height ledge to the summit requires plenty of stamina and concentration.
From Arco reach the swimming pool at Prabi. Continue past Pizzeria California, immediately afterwards take the cement path leftwards (green gate) and head up to the base of the face. The route starts on a dirty slab to the right of the route DDT (cairn at the base)
ItineraryP1: 6a, 25m
P2: 6b+, 30m
P3: 7a+, 30m
P4: 6c+, 20m
P5: 7a, 20m
P6: 6c, 30m
P7: 4c, 25m
P8: 6b, 25m
P9: 6b+, 20m
P10: 6c, 30m
P11: 6b/c, 30m
P12: 6b, 15m
P13: 4c, 30m
From the summit follow signs towards Arco and then descend down the Via Ferrata, or continue easily on towards Laghel, scrambling down the slabs to reach Arco's historic town centre.
Gear15 quickdraws, slings
NotesDue to its popularity the lower section of the route is somewhat polished. But not excessively so and this takes nothing away from the overall experience of repeating this classic climb.
Published on: 16/06/2016
Last update: 17/09/2024
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Bellissima via, una delle vie di più tiri sportive più belle che io abbia mai fatto!
An absolutely stunning route, one of the best multipitch sport climbs I've ever done! Repeated 05/2000.