Via Dülfer - Cima Grande di Lavaredo
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Via Dülfer
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Hans Dülfer, Walter F. von Bermuth, 1913
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
W
Length
250m
Difficulty
5+
Route
The cold West Face hosts the via Dülfer, a direct and elegant line, somewhat less popular than the other routes. It is relatively short, considering that it is on the Cima Grande, and is solid UIAA 6 with some slightly harder moves on the second pitch. The upper chimney provides the backdrop to an almost obligatory photo of climbers silhouetted against the sky and shadowy walls.
Getting there
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo.
Access
From the rifugio Auronzo walk up the scree-filled gully which lies between the Cima Ovest and the Cima Grande. From the top of the saddle climb up the pedestal at the base of the wall to the long chimney/corner. The route starts beneath a yellow crack. Descent
Walk right along the ledge to the normal route and then follow the instructions as for via Hasse. Gear
Since this climbs the corner take plenty of wires and friends.
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo.
Access
From the rifugio Auronzo walk up the scree-filled gully which lies between the Cima Ovest and the Cima Grande. From the top of the saddle climb up the pedestal at the base of the wall to the long chimney/corner. The route starts beneath a yellow crack. Descent
Walk right along the ledge to the normal route and then follow the instructions as for via Hasse. Gear
Since this climbs the corner take plenty of wires and friends.
Comments
06/11/2008 Roberto Bonin
Salita bella, più difficile di quanto possa sembrare dalla relazione. Alcuni passi sono faticosi. Ambiente fantastico, soprattutto la cima! Attenzione alle doppie, si incastrano facilmente.
23/05/2005 gamberini andrea
Via dalla logica impeccabile, in ambiente magnifico, bellissimo il "diedrone" di 80m. Il 5+ é onesto come grado con tratti più facili, portare friends e cordini per i numerosi sassi incastrati. Fare attenzione all'uscita in quanto la prima cengia che si incotra non è la vera cengia anulare. All'attacco cadeva qualche fiocchetto di neve, poi all'uscita quasi si scoppiava dal caldo... buona salita a tutti !
04/04/2005 Sergio Mel.
Excelente, V+ mantenido y aéreo, se equipa muy bien todo el diedro, precioso. La chimenea de arriba espectacular, muy aérea pero segura. Ojo con el destrepe, no perderse.
14/07/2003 Kuraz
Via logica in ambiente magnifico!roccia ottima (peccato solo per la parte finale),chiodatura più che buona.Da salire solo con condizioni meteo settimanali stabili,altrimenti può diventare pericoloso.Complimenti a Dulfer,era proprio un grande!
Beauty
First ascent
Hans Dülfer, Walter F. von Bermuth, 1913
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
W
Length
250m
Difficulty
5+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
