I Colombiani - Monte Pellegrino - Parete dei Rotoli
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Jonathan Bonaventura
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archivio Martino Quintavalla
First ascended ground-up, the route climbs the north face of the Rotoli wall, located above the Palermo cemetery (Rotoli cemetery). The route runs just to the right of Silvan and significantly to the left of Pompa funebre, and is completely independent. 120/130m high and with 4 pitches, it ends 6/7 meters below the netting placed at the top of the wall. The route overhangs considerably, especially the second pitch. The climbing is physical on tufas. The bolting is fairly runout and not "plaisir.
From inside Palermo, take the road that leads to the Santa Rosalia sanctuary. After the first long straight, park just before or after the first hairpin bend. The path leads off from here.
ItineraryP1: 6a 35m. Dulfer crack and small pockets. 5 bolts
P2: 7b+ 35m. Steep overhang past tufas and pockets. 7 bolts
P3: 7a 32m. Highly featured rock, a plethora of tufas and other formations. 9 bolts
P4: 7b 30m. Varied climbing with 2 distinct boulder problems (no tufas). 8/9 bolts
On foot: From P4 it is possible to scramble up for 7/8 meters and reach the netting, then continue up these for about 40m and exit the face and reach Pizzo volo dell'Aquila. From here walk down along the road.
Abseil: 80m single rope required! Clip the last 2 bolts on pitch 4 to reach the belay at P3. From P3 clip all bolts to reach the belay at P2. From P2 tie the single rope with the 60m half rope and abseil down to the ground.
Gear13 quickdraws, carabiners and slings if you want to add additional pro. Bolted belays equipped with stainless steel maillon rapide. Helmet recommended. Take a 60m half rope and leaved this at the end of pitch 2 in order to make a single abseil from there to the ground.
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