Super tegolina - Lastoni di Formin
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Super tegolina
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
F. Piardi, F. Tremolada 1999
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
W
Length
350m
Difficulty
7a
Obligatory difficulty
6b+
Route
A nice, sustained climb up the large central pillar on the West Face, bolted on lead. The difficulties ease off in the upper section, since the rock becomes more slabby and weathered.
Getting there
Passo Giau is reached easily either from Cortina via the SS48 and SS638, or from Caprile for those coming from the Agordino. Access
Approach this climb by driving down from Passo Giau towards Cortina, parking the car after some hairpin bends and following the obvious path no. 436 towards the Forcella Giau. After the wood the path steepens; continue left along a trail past large boulders to the scree slopes that come down from the Lastoni di Formin. Traverse high to beneath the wall and reach the start of the route to the right of a diagonal ramp, at the bottom of a crack.Allow about an hour for the walk-in. Descent
From the summit plateau walk towards Croda da Lago to arrive at the forcella Rossa. Follow the path from here down the South gully and traverse right beneath the wall to the forcella Giau, to meet up with the path that leads down to the car. Gear
There is good pro in-situ, nevertheless a set of trad gear (nuts and small griends) may be found useful. The third pitch is slightly run-out.
Passo Giau is reached easily either from Cortina via the SS48 and SS638, or from Caprile for those coming from the Agordino. Access
Approach this climb by driving down from Passo Giau towards Cortina, parking the car after some hairpin bends and following the obvious path no. 436 towards the Forcella Giau. After the wood the path steepens; continue left along a trail past large boulders to the scree slopes that come down from the Lastoni di Formin. Traverse high to beneath the wall and reach the start of the route to the right of a diagonal ramp, at the bottom of a crack.Allow about an hour for the walk-in. Descent
From the summit plateau walk towards Croda da Lago to arrive at the forcella Rossa. Follow the path from here down the South gully and traverse right beneath the wall to the forcella Giau, to meet up with the path that leads down to the car. Gear
There is good pro in-situ, nevertheless a set of trad gear (nuts and small griends) may be found useful. The third pitch is slightly run-out.
Comments
29/08/2008 Marco
Gran bella via. Valutazioni non corrette, difficoltà massime nell'ordine del 6b/c, obbligatorio ben più basso. Tiro chiave il primo.
07/08/2007 Marcello
Excellent route on very nice rock, thanks to the 'apritori'! The grades in the topo are a little fuzzy: pitch 1 is very hard for 6b, while the 7a crux pitch is rather easy. But who cares... protection is generally very good, although there is an occasional runout in easier terrain (6a and below).
23/07/2007 Massimo Francese
Che dire...complimenti agli apritori! Una via sportiva che regala forti emozioni. Spit dove i passaggi sono più intensi, le soste sono a prova di bomba. Andateci!
29/08/2006 Harad Swen
Beautiful route on perfect rock. Best route done in the Dolomites so far. Very well equiped. Abseil descent perfectly possible. Can we have more of these routes please?
Beauty
First ascent
F. Piardi, F. Tremolada 1999
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
W
Length
350m
Difficulty
7a
Obligatory difficulty
6b+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
