Spigolo Giallo - Cima Piccola di Lavaredo
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Nicholas Hobley
Every year hundreds of climbers flock to the Spigolo Giallo. Few routes have such a perfect line, and few routes get quite so crowded. It is best climbed out of season and preferably avoided at the weekends. The difficult sections at the start and near the finish follow a beautiful line near the arête, whilst the less interesting middle section rises up to the right.
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo.
From Rifugio Lavaredeo walk up the scree to the foot of the arête. To the left a ledge leads rightwards to the start beneath the corner.
DescentThe route finishes slightly below the summit proper; scramble up to this and from the saddle abseil down the West Face. Resined abseil rings, less than 25m apart, lead down to the saddle that separates the Cima Piccola from the Cima Grande. Walk down the scree back to the start of the route.
GearTake a full set of wires, friends, slings, kevlar threads and plenty of quickdraws.
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