Solo per un altro Hashtag - Val Lasties - Sella
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Solo per un altro Hashtag: Johannes Egger making the first ascent of Solo per un altro Hashtag in Val Lasties, Sella, Dolomites. The mixed climb was established with Jörg Niedermayr and Friedl Brancalion on 27/01/2018
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Johannes Egger, Jörg Niedermayr, Friedl Brancalion on 27/01/2018. Established alpine style, it was then bolted by the second ascentionists (Roberto Parolari, Andrea Reboldi).
By
Johannes Egger
Difficulty
M5+ / WI5
Spectacular ice and mixed climb above Val Lasties to the right of Freit dl mond.
The climb was first ascended onsight using friends, nuts and ice screws. There is an insitu peg at the base of pitch 3, left by a previous attempt carried out by a local climber.
The second ascentionists (convinced they were making a first ascent 4 days later) added bolts to the belays and seven bolts to the mixed pitch. Furthermore, there is a belay equipped with abseil ring at the top of the route.
On 04/12/2019 Santiago Padros and Diego Toigo repeated the route at the start of the season and avoided the M5+ mixed pitch as the drip had formed all the way to the ledge. Il 04/12/2019 Santiago Padros e Diego Toigo hanno effettuato una bella ripetizione di inizio stagione e, forse, si sono aggiudicati anche la prima salita di tutto il flusso in quanto la candela del secondo tiro ha toccato la cengia, permettendo a Padros e Toigo di evitare il tratto di M5+ su roccia.
On 12/12/2019 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer climbed an additional three pitches on the upper section to create Hashtag Extension (M6, WI5). The three pitches were climbed without adding bolts, so there is no insitu belays. This is now a a 'very rewarding outing', but Messner warns that from the penultimate belay, with two 60-meter ropes you DO NOT reach the wide ledge and you consequently have to downclimb for about 5 meters. Alternatively, you can abseil off an Abalakov anchor.
The climb was first ascended onsight using friends, nuts and ice screws. There is an insitu peg at the base of pitch 3, left by a previous attempt carried out by a local climber.
The second ascentionists (convinced they were making a first ascent 4 days later) added bolts to the belays and seven bolts to the mixed pitch. Furthermore, there is a belay equipped with abseil ring at the top of the route.
On 04/12/2019 Santiago Padros and Diego Toigo repeated the route at the start of the season and avoided the M5+ mixed pitch as the drip had formed all the way to the ledge. Il 04/12/2019 Santiago Padros e Diego Toigo hanno effettuato una bella ripetizione di inizio stagione e, forse, si sono aggiudicati anche la prima salita di tutto il flusso in quanto la candela del secondo tiro ha toccato la cengia, permettendo a Padros e Toigo di evitare il tratto di M5+ su roccia.
On 12/12/2019 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer climbed an additional three pitches on the upper section to create Hashtag Extension (M6, WI5). The three pitches were climbed without adding bolts, so there is no insitu belays. This is now a a 'very rewarding outing', but Messner warns that from the penultimate belay, with two 60-meter ropes you DO NOT reach the wide ledge and you consequently have to downclimb for about 5 meters. Alternatively, you can abseil off an Abalakov anchor.
Access
As for Cassiopeo and Freit dl mond. From Forcella Pordoi descend down Val Lasties to reach the dip below Cassiopeo. From here ascend left of Cassiopeo and enter the amphitheatre and the start of the icefall. From thedip the icefall and the lefthand side of the amphitheatre wall can be made out. Itinerary
As for Cassiopeo and Freit dl mond. From Forcella Pordoi descend down Val Lasties to reach the dip below Cassiopeo. From here ascend left of Cassiopeo and enter the amphitheatre and the start of the icefall. From thedip the icefall and the lefthand side of the amphitheatre wall can be made out. Itinerary
P1: Wi4
P2: traverse along the ledge
P3: M5+
P4: WI5
Pitch 1 is shared with Freit dl mond. From this belay traverse left and belay on spike + bolt.
Climb the corner and exit left onto the drip. Continue up this to the grotto / ledge. The last pitch climbs the drip and leads to the end of the ice.
Climb the corner and exit left onto the drip. Continue up this to the grotto / ledge. The last pitch climbs the drip and leads to the end of the ice.
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Beauty
First ascent
Johannes Egger, Jörg Niedermayr, Friedl Brancalion on 27/01/2018. Established alpine style, it was then bolted by the second ascentionists (Roberto Parolari, Andrea Reboldi).
By
Johannes Egger
Difficulty
M5+ / WI5
Routes in the same mountain group
Show more in Sella
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