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La vita tra le dita - Monte Monaco

Italy>Sicily>Apennines>Sicilian Apennines>Monte Monaco

Fabio Failla

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La vita tra le dita

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Beauty

First ascent

Fabio Failla, Massimo Faletti, Luigi Filocamo, Sergio Soraci (10/2012 and 05/2013)

Fabio Failla

Orientation

North

Length

200m

Difficulty

6b+

Obligatory difficulty

6b+

Route

The route climbs the large North Face of Monte Monaco and heads to a large pillar that terminates below the summit on large grassy terraces. Although the difficulties are not extreme, only few bolts were placed during the first ascent meaning that a full set of camming devices and nuts are required. All belays are bolted.

Access
Start circa 20m to the right of the lowest section of the face, directly below two large cracks. All belays are bolted. Take a full set of Camalot camming devices in particular small (C3) and slings. Two 60m half ropes. Itinerary
P1: 30m, 6b+, 2 bolts
P2: 40m, 6a+, 4 bolts
P3: 25m, 6b+, 4 bolts
P4: 30m, 6a, 3 bolts
P5: 40m, 6a+, 3 bolts
P6: 25m, 6b, 5 bolts Descent
Abseil descent: two 25m abseils lead to an anchor 2m to the right of the third last pitch, from here continue on down using the route's belays. Gear
Full climbing rack (+ friends & nuts)