La Röschtigraben - Reissend Nollen
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La Röschtigraben
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Silvan Schüpbach, Nicolas Zambetti, Julien Zambetti 2011. FFA: Silvan Schüpbach & Vera Reist 2012
By
Silvan Schüpbach
Length
700m
Difficulty
8a+
Obligatory difficulty
7b
Established in 2011 ground-up during 12 days, the route takes a 700m line just to the left of Via Italia on Reissend Nollen and ascends "perfect limestone".
Getting there
Reach Gadmen via the Sustenpassstrasse, from Obermaad take the toll road to the Wendenalp. Access
From the Wendenalp ascend on foot for 1.5 hours. The route starts 20m to the right of Via Italia (5 minutes from the Reissend Nollen bivy). Itinerary
P1: 3b, P2: 7a+, P3: 6b+, P4: 6b, P5: 6c+, P6: 5b, P7: 5b, P8: 7a+, P9: 7a, P10: 6b+, P11: 6c, P12: 7b, P13: 8a+, P14: 7b, P15: 7c, P16: 7b+, P17: 7a, P18: 6a+, P19: 6a+, P20: 2a, P21: 6c+, P22: 7a+, P23: 6b
+ 100m Gross route to summit Descent
Abseil down the route or continue to the summit via the route Gross then walk down. Gear
Despite being protected by bolts, the route still requires a trad rack (BD 0.3 - 2, Metolius 1 - 6), 2 x 50m ropes.
Reach Gadmen via the Sustenpassstrasse, from Obermaad take the toll road to the Wendenalp. Access
From the Wendenalp ascend on foot for 1.5 hours. The route starts 20m to the right of Via Italia (5 minutes from the Reissend Nollen bivy). Itinerary
P1: 3b, P2: 7a+, P3: 6b+, P4: 6b, P5: 6c+, P6: 5b, P7: 5b, P8: 7a+, P9: 7a, P10: 6b+, P11: 6c, P12: 7b, P13: 8a+, P14: 7b, P15: 7c, P16: 7b+, P17: 7a, P18: 6a+, P19: 6a+, P20: 2a, P21: 6c+, P22: 7a+, P23: 6b
+ 100m Gross route to summit Descent
Abseil down the route or continue to the summit via the route Gross then walk down. Gear
Despite being protected by bolts, the route still requires a trad rack (BD 0.3 - 2, Metolius 1 - 6), 2 x 50m ropes.
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Beauty
First ascent
Silvan Schüpbach, Nicolas Zambetti, Julien Zambetti 2011. FFA: Silvan Schüpbach & Vera Reist 2012
By
Silvan Schüpbach
Length
700m
Difficulty
8a+
Obligatory difficulty
7b
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