Transocean - Pfaffenhut
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Transocean: Pfaffenhuet, Wenden, Switzerland.
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Bernd Rathmayr & Reto Ruhstaller 2007 & 2010. First free ascent: Reto Ruhstaller 26/08/2010
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
South
Length
230m
Height
2300m
Difficulty
7b+
Obligatory difficulty
7a+
Period
July - October
Route
Transocean is a beautiful route up compact limestone, first ascended from the ground-up in the summers 2007 and 2010 and although equipped with bolts it needs camming devices for additional protection. Very technical slab climbing, the line was freed by Ruhstaller on 26/08/2010.
Getting there
Reach Gadmen via the Sustenpassstrasse, from Obermaad take the toll road to the Wendenalp. Access
From the Wendenalp ascend on foot for 1.5 hours. The route starts between "Voie du frère" and "Patent Ochsner". Itinerary
P1: 6c, 45m
P2: 6a+, 45m
P3: 6b+, 35m
P4: 7b, 15m
P5: 7b+, 30m
P6: 7a+, 25m
P7: 6c, 45m Descent
Abseil down the route. Gear
2 x 50m ropes, Friends 4.5 - 2.5, slings Notes
Transocean was named after the drilling company responsible for the 2010 Gulf of Mexico oil spill which caused one of the biggest environmental disasters of all times
Reach Gadmen via the Sustenpassstrasse, from Obermaad take the toll road to the Wendenalp. Access
From the Wendenalp ascend on foot for 1.5 hours. The route starts between "Voie du frère" and "Patent Ochsner". Itinerary
P1: 6c, 45m
P2: 6a+, 45m
P3: 6b+, 35m
P4: 7b, 15m
P5: 7b+, 30m
P6: 7a+, 25m
P7: 6c, 45m Descent
Abseil down the route. Gear
2 x 50m ropes, Friends 4.5 - 2.5, slings Notes
Transocean was named after the drilling company responsible for the 2010 Gulf of Mexico oil spill which caused one of the biggest environmental disasters of all times
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Beauty
First ascent
Bernd Rathmayr & Reto Ruhstaller 2007 & 2010. First free ascent: Reto Ruhstaller 26/08/2010
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
South
Length
230m
Height
2300m
Difficulty
7b+
Obligatory difficulty
7a+
Period
July - October
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
08/10/2010 - Climbing
Transocean, new route on Wenden by Rathmayr and Ruhstaller Bernd Rathmayr and Reto Ruhstaller have established Transocean (7b+, 7a+ obl., 230m) on the Wendenstöcke in Switzerland.