Compagni di merenda - Tofana di Rozes
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Compagni di merenda
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
M. Da Pozzo, T. Cipriano 1998
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
S
Length
350m
Difficulty
7b
Obligatory difficulty
7b
Route
A demanding route up the left-hand side of the pillar. The compact and featured rock is one of the best to be found on the Tofana. The fourth and fifth pitches are the hardest, but the rest of the route should not be underestimated; it has a distinct "alpine" feel, as the pitches are long and run-out.
Getting there
Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge. Access
Approach by following the path that leads beneath the pillar, along the base of the wall, past the Spigolo del Pilastro. The route follows a line to the left of this, and starts from an obvious ledge, which can be reached by scrambling up to the left. Allow about 30 minutes for the walk-in. Descent
Excellent belays: descend by abseil. Gear
Two 55m ropes, a full rack and plenty of friends.
Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge. Access
Approach by following the path that leads beneath the pillar, along the base of the wall, past the Spigolo del Pilastro. The route follows a line to the left of this, and starts from an obvious ledge, which can be reached by scrambling up to the left. Allow about 30 minutes for the walk-in. Descent
Excellent belays: descend by abseil. Gear
Two 55m ropes, a full rack and plenty of friends.
Comments
27/09/2006 toti sole
e una grande via la chiodatura distanziata, troppo continuita a prese piccoli, il 7b e troppo diaganale a destra ke la topo
03/08/2006 Giuseppe
Bea via
25/11/2003 edoardo demarchi
Molto bella su tutti i tiriA livello psico, sono più impegnativi i tiri "facili", dove occorre ricercare l'itinerario e il grado è obbligatorio lontano dagli spitIl 7b non può essere obbligatorio ed il passo chiave è ammorbidito da un kevlar pendente e tentatore che si afferra bene al volo, rovinandovi la libera. se siete al limite ignoratelo subito oltre allo spit vi riposerete Il 7a è ben spittatoL'ultimo tiro è lievemente più alpinistico
30/10/2001 Walter Longhino
Via impegnativa dal punto di vistapsicologico per la distanza delle protezioni - Per un approccio alla parete conviene fare nell'ordine le vicine DA PAZZO (un po più sportiva)E GOOD BYE 99
Beauty
First ascent
M. Da Pozzo, T. Cipriano 1998
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
S
Length
350m
Difficulty
7b
Obligatory difficulty
7b
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
