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Hystrix - Pizzo Campana - Rocca Busambra

Italy>Sicily>Apennines>Sicilian Apennines>Pizzo Campana - Rocca Busambra

Matteo Giglio

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Hystrix: Livia climbing pitch 3 (ph arch. M. Giglio)

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Matteo Giglio ground up with Marco Farina, Livia Guarino, Anna Torretta and also alone, during 6 days from December 2008 to 2010.

Matteo Giglio

Orientation

North

Length

200m

Height

1220m

Difficulty

8a+

Obligatory difficulty

Route

Demanding and continuous climb up the completely vertical and smooth North Face. The max difficulties still need confirming. At present the first free ascent is still outstanding and this represents a great challenge. The Pizzo Campana limestone is very smooth and reading it properly is no mean task, rendering on-sighting difficult.
Nb: in 2012 young German climber Michi Wohlleben made the first free ascent of the entire route. All grades were confirmed and the crux pitch, instead of 8b?, is now 8a+. The pitches are as follows therefore: 7b, 6c+, 7c, 8a, 8a+, 7b, 7c with solid 7a obligatory climbing.

Getting there
Palermo – Villabate – Misilmeri – Marineo - Ficuzza. Itinerary
P1: 7b, 20m, 6 bolts
P2: 6c+, 30m, 9 bolts
P3: 7c, 30m, 12 bolts
P4: 8a, 35m, 12 bolts
P5: 8a+, 35m, 11 bolts
P6: 7b, 20m, 5 bolts
P7: 7c, 30m, 7 bolts Descent
Abseiling is possibly off all belays. The final belay is equipped with a bolt and thread (not connected): this abseil is done from an obvious, independent anchor 10m east Gear
The route is equipped with stainless steel Raumer 10mm bolts and abseil rings at the belays. Two 60m ropes (or one 80m rope), 13 quickdraws and a helmet suffice. Small friends (not used during the first ascent nor repeat) may be found useful to render some obligatory sections less run-out.