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Fallo di Plutone - Valnontey - Cogne

Italy>Valle d'Aosta>Western Alps>Cogne-Valnontey>Valnontey - Cogne

Alpine Ice Tour

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Fallo di Plutone

Planetmountain

Beauty

Alpine Ice Tour

Orientation

Height

1950m

Difficulty

II/4

Route

Beautiful and fun icefall despite its rather short length. Climb the first 80°/85° drip and belay on the right (bolt). The second 55/60m pitch leads to a bolt belay in a small cave, or to the left on two old pegs. The final pitch can be climbed either to the left or right, conditions depending, and is always highly satisfying (85°, bolt belay on the right).

Getting there

From the Aosta West motorway exit drive through Cogne and continue to Valnontey. Park at the end of the road.

Access

Walk up the long Valnontey valley to the Erfaulet bridge, and continue to the left of the river. Pass the icefalls Repentance, Flash estivo e Fiumana which are clearly visible on the left (hydrographic right) and continue to reach the base of the first short 80°/85° drip. Walk in: 2 hours 15min

Descent

Three abseils from bolt belays.

Gear

Normal ice climbing gear.