The routes

Climbing routes

10
Routes in archive
Delta Minox
Delta Minox - Val Masino Pilastro del Scingino
7a+, A1 4p.a.
One of the most coveted climbs in the Central Alps, it represented a huge leap in terms of quality in Val Masino and even today is often considered one of the most difficult slab climbs in the Alps. A series...
El despertador fotonico
El despertador fotonico - Escudo del Qualido - Val Qualido
7b
Established in autumn 2019, El Despertador Fotonico is the latest addition to Escudo del Qualido. It tackles a line on the righthand side and was climbed ground-up with trad gear where possible and is otherwise equipped with 10 mm stainless...
Here today gone tomorrow
Here today gone tomorrow - Scoglio delle Metamorfosi - Val di Mello
X-
A logical sequence of slender cracks to the left of Io non ho paura up the Scoglio delle Metamorfosi. In 2014 Pietro Biasini, Daniele Bianchi and Mirko Masè established the first seven pitches, in November 2015 Bianchi and Masé completed...
La Vedova Nera
La Vedova Nera - Stella Marina - Val di Mello
VII+
Few words are needed to describe one of the most beautiful and feared routes in Val di Mello. For those who love friction climbing, the black widow is a highly prized rock climb. A true Vitali valley masterpiece.
Luna Nascente
Luna Nascente - Scoglio delle Metamorfosi - Val di Mello
VII
Luna Nascente can rightly be considered a true pearl of the Alps, an absolutely fantastic route in Val di Mello. A beautiful perfect series of cracks and flakes on fantastic rock which has few equals in the rest of Europe....
Mani di Fata
Mani di Fata - Alkekengi - Val di Mello
VII
One of the most beautiful slab routes in the entire Val di Mello, even if the long run-outs put off numerous parties. Recently rebolted. Excellent rock. The third pitch is slightly exposed.
Oceano Irrazionale
Oceano Irrazionale - Precipizio degli Asteroidi
VII
Oceano Irrazionale was first route to introduce the grade VII in the Central Alps. Irrational Ocean is a fantastic line up long vertical cracks and a prodigious traverse right, la "Tromba", to reach the suspended pulpit. Certainly one of the...
Pana
Pana - Mongolfiera - Val di Mello
8b
Logical and beautiful line first ascended ground-up by Daniele Bianchi and Simone Pedeferri in June 2016 up the Mongolfiera face in Val di Mello, above Scoglio delle Metamorfosi. The route is composed of 9 pitches, of which the two crux...
Vascello Fantasma
Vascello Fantasma - Pera del Ferro
6b
Vascello Fantasma in Valle del Ferro climbs up an excellent quality rock face in a particularly remote and evocative corner of Val Masino, despite being clearly visible from the valley floor (and even from the San Martino webcam!). The route ascends...
Via Napoleone
Via Napoleone - Punta Valeria
VII+ (VI+/A0)
Via Napoleone is an alpine climb in Val Torrone (SO), above Val Masino, established ground-up past the most obvious lines of weakenss.


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