The routes

Climbing routes

469
Routes in archive
Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno
Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno - Aguglia di Goloritzé
7a
The massive free-standing Aguglia towers high above Cala Goloritzè, one of Sardinia's most beautiful bays. Its Verdonesque limestone walls offer unparalleled technical slab climbing in fantastic surroundings - a must!Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno is a beautiful sport climb,...
Jedi Master
Jedi Master - Sergent
I/S2/6c+ max
Magnificent granite climbing which alternates demanding slabs with fantastic cracks.
Jeo
Jeo - Col de Stagn, Sella
7a
Jeo is the latest modern sport climb to be established up the East Face of Col de Stagn, after the hugely popular Eva Dorme (6b+ max) and its easier neighbour Ludomania (6a max). Of the three routes currently on this face,...
Joy Division
Joy Division - Monte Qualido, Val Qualido
8b
Joy Division was first ascended by local climber Simone Pedeferri and is a combination of three routes, the first three pitchs of Forse si, forse no (Igor Koller, Peter Machai, Miro Piala, 1996) followed by Mellodramma (Gianni & Paolo Covelli,...
Kaos
Kaos - Monte Gallo
7c
Fantastic modern climb up slabs and through overhang, demanding and varied, with some impressive pitches. Exposure guaranteed. Bolts at times run-out with difficult obligatory sections.
Kind of Blue
Kind of Blue - Faraglione di Buggerru
6a
A modern, completely bolted climb located on the NE face Faraglione di Buggerru (West coast of Sardinia), locally known as 'La Vela'. This vertical, at times overhanging sea stack is 44 meters high and located close to one of the...
Kindergarten
Kindergarten - Col Bechei
VIII
Kindergarten is a modern route that requires skillful placing of trad gear, with bolts on only the most compact sections. All threads have been left in-situ, and the belays feature two 10mm bolts each (except the first, which has a bolt...
L Pilaster Desmincià
L Pilaster Desmincià - Sass Rigais
VII-
L Pilaster Desmincià, the forgotten pillar, climbs the NW Face of Sass Rigais. Although the rock is rather loose on the lower and upper section, the central part of the route contains rock that is 'pure joy.'
L'isola che non c’è
L'isola che non c’è - Aiguille Croux
7b+ max./7a obbl. RS3+
L'isola che non c’è was first ascended ground-up over a period of 5 days in the cleanest style possible, i.e. with very few bolts along the pitches, a handful of insitu pegs where the rock accepts them. All the rest...
L'ombra della mia mano
L'ombra della mia mano - Punta Cusidore
6c
L'ombra della mia mano is a beautiful route established ground-up in 1996 by Cecilia Marchi, Maurizio Oviglia, and Antonello Pala on the northwest face of Punta Cusidore - the "mountain of the Sardinians" that rises over a thousand meters above...
L'Ora del Garda
L'Ora del Garda - Mandrea Arco
8a
Demanding and sustained climb."All said are done there are 10 pitches, 9 new ones plus a final easy pitch shared with another route. The route climbs an extraordinary void, offers a nice variety of climbing styles the demand a disturbing...
L'uomo Volante
L'uomo Volante - Quarto Torrione di Mondeval
7a max / A0
Established ground-up, the new multi-pitch rock climb L'uomo volante ascends the south face of Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Lastoni di Formin group in the Italian Dolomites. It runs parrallel to Forza 5, and the crux involves breaching the...
L'Uovo di Colombo
L'Uovo di Colombo - Monte Cimo, Sass Mesdì
7c+ max, 7a+ soft
In mid-June Rolando Larcher and Herman Zanetti made the first ascent of L'uovo di Colombo up Monte Cimo in Val d'Adige. A 200m route that breaches the obvious large roofs with two different options: hard 7c+ and soft 7a+.
La Banda del Buco
La Banda del Buco - Monte Pellegrino - Antro della Perciata
7a+/7b
An absolutely unique route because of its setting, the quality of the rock, but above all because I had never come across such contained difficulties on an overhang as big as this one. The route overhangs almost 60m with difficulties...
La beffa
La beffa - Cima Cason di Formin
7a+/7b
Established by Massimo Da Pozzo and Pier Francesco Smaltini in September 2012, La beffa (the joke) gets it's name from the fact that the drill batteries dies two bolts short of the summit, forcing Mox to return to finish off...
La bellezza non conosce paura
La bellezza non conosce paura - Monte Robon
7b+
Beauty Knows No Fear on Monte Robon features an incredible sequence of pockets and tiny edges on superb rock and boasts an impressive continuity. It was established ground-up in July 1997 using 8mm stainless steel bolts and without any trad...


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