The routesClassic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Alice in Wonderland - Presanella
TD M5+/A0 and snow max 75°
Demanding mixed route established in winter which breaches demanding sections of mixed rock and ice in search of the line obvious line of weakness in a wild and solitary environment. The route requires stable snow conditions and a long cold...
Candela delle Meraviglie
III/5
A relatively demanding, nice climb set in a beautiful and isolated part of the Alps. Danger of avalanches: beware of snow conditions.
Ci Cozz
III/5
The icefall is comprised of two vertical sections that lead up a sunny rocky wall. A belay is equipped with bolts before the top of the first vertical section, on the right. The second pitch is more continuous with circa...
Clean Climb - Monte Nero di Presanella
IV/M4+
A new mixed outing up the extreme left-hand side of the North Face of Monte Nero (Presanella). Climbed in 5 hours, as the name suggests the route was climbed with trad gear only, including the belays, and offers exciting,...
Danza del Ventre
II/4/4+
Splendid free-standing drip, unfortunately rather short and with a long walk-in. Alternatively, it can be reached by climbing either Shining Ice or Red Bull and then traversing south to the base of this drip.
Dardaglin
II/4
Very beautiful and highly rewarding icefall. Beware of the thickness of the ice. Water almost always runs within the fall. It requires a long period of intense cold to form completely.
Depravation - Presanella
TD+/ED- WI 5 M6 VI+ A1/2
Climbing this route was extremely satisfying, it's only five pitches high but all are extremely beautiful, difficult and different, the rock is always splendid and the scenery is grandiose.The conditions were relatively good, with a thin ice vein on pitches...
En attendant Marlier
5/III
Long and demanding icefall which usually has a drytooling start graded M7+. In 2009 a column of ice came into condition along the entire rock face, and the climb was therefore formed completely.
Fopel
II/4
Very beautiful drip. Carefully analyse the thickness of the ice and, given its orientation, the temperature!
Gorillas im Nebel
M10/WI6
The setting for Gorillas im Nebel is awesome, wedged between the dark, mighty granite walls and the bizarre ice drips. A dreamline which, despite being mixed, has a high percentage of water ice.
Hängende Gärten - Sellraintal
WI6
First ascended by Tyrolean ice climbing legend Andreas Orgler, Hängende Gärten is the classic ice fall in Tyrol, fullstop. An important chapter in Tyrol's ice climbing history was written in 1988 when Orgler made the first ascent and the...
Il Sole di Mezzogiorno - Singlin
M5, 6a
Il Sole di Mezzogiorno climbs the obvious corner on the Singlin rock face.
Illogika - Monte Nero di Presanella
M5 AI4+, III
The mixed climb Illogika takes a line to the left of Couloir dell’H on Monte Nero di Presanella (Adamello - Presanella). An old peg was found on pitch 2, at present it is unclear whether it belongs to an...
Illusione Ottica
III/4
Nice icefall, unfortunately somewhat short. From afar it looks as if the vertical section could be much longer, and it gets its name because of this. A great climb for beginners, in a fantastic setting.
Klassischer Renkfall - Kaunertal
WI4+
The high lying Renkfälle offer an impressive, breathtaking alpine ambient and almost a dozen icefalls ranging from WI4 to WI6 are located within a stone's throw of each other. The large variety on offer and the alpine environment close to...
Krönung - Zillertal
WI6
Long and serious icefall which offers some of the finest ice climbing ever. Watch out for falling ice on pitch 3. Exact timing is crucial for a successful ascent as ice seldom forms along the entire line. Do not underestimate...
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