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Eiger Metanoia video of Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli repeat
05/02/2017 - Alpinism
Eiger Metanoia video of Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli repeat
Winter mountaineering: the video of the first repeat of Metanoia, carried out in December 2016 by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli, 25 years after the first ascent at the hands of Jeff Lowe in 1991.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 won in Corvara by HeeYong Park and Han Na Rai Song
01/02/2017 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 won in Corvara by HeeYong Park and Han Na Rai Song
The last stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup was held last weekend in Corvara; HeeYong Park and Han Na Rai Song won both the stage in Val Passiria and the overall World Cup. The fastest Speed climbers were Pavel Batushev and Ekaterina Feoktistova, while the Speed World Cup was...
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...
El Chico, Dry tooling enchainment by Bonino and Colay up Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc
05/01/2017 - Alpinism
El Chico, Dry tooling enchainment by Bonino and Colay up Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc
Alpinism: on 7/12/2016 Enrico Bonino and Olivier Colay made a dry-tooling reinterpretation of the routes Pinelli-Sabbadini, Lenoir and Ottoz, to forge El Chico (M6+ 4° 250m) on Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc massif.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: five stages followed by the Ice Climbing World Championships
07/12/2016 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: five stages followed by the Ice Climbing World Championships
On 16 December 2016 the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 gets underway with the first stage at Durango, Colorado, USA.
Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
17/11/2016 - Alpinism
Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
Paolo Marazzi talks about his 'sailing and climbing' experience in Greenland’s Mythic Circle. The result: two new 800m climbs and above all though ‘an absolutely unique adventure in the North Sea.’
Russian direttissima up Thalay Sagar North Face
11/11/2016 - Alpinism
Russian direttissima up Thalay Sagar North Face
In September 2016 Russian mountaineers Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov made the first ascent of Moveable Feast (1400m), a difficult new climb the North Face of Thalay Sagar (6904m) in the Indian Himalayas.
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
From 5 to 20 October 2016 Marek Raganowicz made what is believed to be only the second solo ascent of Plastic Surgery Disaster, the A5 aid climb put up in 1991 by Eric Kohl on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
10/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
Mike Kosterlitz was recently awarded the Nobel Prize in Physics. Apart from his scientific genius, the Scotsman was an expert climber and mountaineer who left his mark in particular in Italy’s Orco valley with his famous Fessura Kosterlitz. By Giovanni Battimelli.
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
06/10/2016 - Alpinism
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her July 2016 ascent, carried out with Merlin Benoit, of 'Divine Providence' (ED+, 7b+, 900m) up Grand Pilier d’Angle, Mont Blanc. This is likely to be the first free female ascent of this route established from 5 -8 July 1984 by Patrick Gabarrou and...
Martina Cufar climbs her second 8c at Bionnassay
28/09/2016 - Climbing
Martina Cufar climbs her second 8c at Bionnassay
Slovenian climber Martina Cufar has redpointed her second 8c sports climb, 'Max power' at Bionnassay, France.
Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
14/09/2016 - Climbing
Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
Action Directe was established by Wolfgang Güllich on 14 September 1991 at Waldkopf in Germany's Frankenjura. The route set new new standards in sport climbing and now, precisely twenty-five years after the first ascent, Planetmountain.com takes a step back in time to discover more about one of the most famous...
Asgard Jamming, the climbing style by Favresse & Villanueva
06/09/2016 - Alpinism
Asgard Jamming, the climbing style by Favresse & Villanueva
PlayAlpinismo films free of charge: Asgard Jamming. The adventure of Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Olivier Favresse, Stephane Hanssens and Silvia Vidal on Mount Asgard (Baffin Island) is an ode to happiness, climbing and discovery. The film review by Vinicio Stefanello.
Romain Desgranges and Anak Verhoeven win the IFSC Climbing World Cup Lead at Arco
27/08/2016 - Competitions
Romain Desgranges and Anak Verhoeven win the IFSC Climbing World Cup Lead at Arco
Rock Master Festival 2016. At Arco Romain Desgranges (Fra) and Anak Verhoeven (Bel) win the 5th stage of Lead World Cup 2016. Jakob Schubert (Aut) and Jain Kim (Kor) place second, Dmitrii Fakiryanov (Rus) and Janja Garnbret (Slo) place third. Francesco Vettorata, the only Italian in the Final, finishes seventh.
Janja Garnbret and Domen Škofic score Slovenian double at Briançon
28/07/2016 - Climbing
Janja Garnbret and Domen Škofic score Slovenian double at Briançon
The third stage of the Lead World Cup 2016 was won on 23 July at Briançon in France by the Slovenians Janja Garnbret and Domen Škofic.
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...

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